150 miles later still doing it. When I finally make it to the top of a hill it stinks like I've been smashing the throttle. Maybe try seafoam for injectors? Fuel filter?
Really trying to avoid the shop.
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150 miles later still doing it. When I finally make it to the top of a hill it stinks like I've been smashing the throttle. Maybe try seafoam for injectors? Fuel filter?
Really trying to avoid the shop.
I agree on cat. I fixed all the stuff you dd and still had the probelm, also had the rotten egg stinl after a long uphill struggle. For my 2001 SE the bolt in Walker was in the ballpark of $200 bucks at Autozone. Your mechanic should charge about an hour of labor to put one in. He should be able to confirm the blocked cat with an exhaust backpressure test. I was hating having to change the cat, but you can't expect the engine to run if it has a a potato stuck it its butt ...pretty common problem on these cars. GM had a 10 year or 120K extended warranty on them because of all the failures. Don' t cheap out on a generic cat. The cost of labor to adapt to your pipes to put it in will offset the higher cost cost of the bolt in. Also may not work properly and you will have cat codes like P0420, low efficiency, being thrown. My Walker went in easy, and no problems with codes. Car runs like new now, was almost as bad as yours previous. And, even as bad as it was, never threw any codes except P0300s under load and sometimes a P0404 EGR position error, which happens when the backpressure causes the EGR to lift open when it should be shut. But never threw a P0429 low cat efficiency code, go figure.
Off to the cat then, thanks will let you guys know how it turns out
not the cat cut it off right before it loud as he** but still no power. just sit and mash it with the brake on you can hear it. new fuel filter checked vac lines. im done, biting the bullet and taking it to the dealer.
Word of advice. Do not buy BWD parts. Brand new coil went bad
Just a minute....did you check the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor operation with a scanner or by replacing it or check for loose/disconnected MAF sensor wiring, or a loose boot between the MAF sensor and the throttle body? My 3100 ran horribly when I forgot to properly make up the boot after an air filter replacement, and while troubleshooting my bad cat, had REALLY bad lack of power with the wiring unplugged from the MAF sensor.
Also not sure if even a totally otherwise normal engine will run well with the piping from the exhaust manifold to the cat inlet totally disconnected like you did, thought I read on another thread about a guy doing what you did,got the same result you did , and in the end it was still the cat. Most of the threads that try to add some backpressure relief ahead of the cat just remove the upstream O2 sensor - there will be enough increased flow out of the sensor hole to make a difference.
Since you cut the piping you are in for at least a catless downpipe if that's legal in your state (is it true that there is no emission testing in OHIO anymore, or is that only true for older vehicles, like here in CT for over 25 years?), a new cat, or a weld repair to the inlet pipe even if the cat is good....
Good luck.. know what you are going through.
Last edited by AJ1G; 04-05-2014 at 05:26 PM.
Just last night I had my maf die but it failed in such a way that it didn't set any codes. My cars reaction was to drive perfectly except when it needed to idle (Sitting at stoplights or letting off the gas in a turn) It would go to 60%+ fuel trims and freak out missfiring and loping. Threw me for a loop and I even ripped the blower and intercooler off to reseal everything. Only noticed it when I noticed that after driving hptuners on my laptop showed the maf hadent ever gone above 1lb min. I checked the scan data and the thing was pegged at 1hz all the time.
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