Thread: Is this the Dorman Sway bar?

It's likely either a dorman or a GMPP.

The sticker on it actually makes me think GMPP. Unless Dorman's come with one there as well, I'm not sure.

The doorman one i bought had a sticker that said Passenger on it and a white stamp with their name on it. For $50 though you might as well buy a new one for an extra $25 and know what you're getting.

I just did both my front and rears yesterday and it made a huge difference. I didn't use the GMPP so can't really speak about that or doing the front alone but I'd say it's worth it. I'd go with something different than the GMPP though because the front is hollow. The ZZP Progress front is the same diameter and solid for $150 or the Doorman is a millimeter smaller, solid and only $80.

Originally Posted by addzradd

Soild swaybars are stupid, they are much heavier and are not any stiffer. But yeah if I was upgrading I would start in the back first.

I agree with what nik said about this. Solid bars aren't stupid for people where rust is a problem. And the weight they add is so little that unless your making a drag car who cares.

Originally Posted by nik12937

The benefit of solid bars is knowing it won't rot through and snap on the end, and it only adds a few pounds. Good for people in the rust belt.

Just get a new Dorman off Amazon, they're cheap as hell on there.

I'd suggest poly bushings and end links too, they make a big difference and won't rot out in a year like mine did, the included bushings are made of crap rubber. Or it's just due to PA winters, who knows.

its got nothing to do with winter, they are flat out crap bushing that dorman sells with their sway bar. the end links are ok, its the bar bushings that fall apart in a year or less, and ive got maybe 5,000 miles on then, still fell apart and now clunk on one side.


get the polly bushings, why change them later like i will have to now.

^^^ I agree that the bushings are horrible that come with them and to go with poly right from the start but winters/salt do take a toll on hollow bars. Check out my suspension thread. The stock hollow one I pulled off my car (only 55K) was cracked on both ends where it connects to the endlinks. A solid bar won't have that problem.