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I'm all for it. What is it feeding? Turbo inlet?
I like the vents, maybe some pictures from the inside on how it's duct through. Good look.
Forgive my ignorance in my questions. It's been a while since I messed with suspensions. My limited experiences was open wheel cars and that was torsion bar technology. Coilovers were just begging to be seen at the local track. In fact my friend was an engineer and he was experimenting with them. Most of what I learn he taught me, that and Physics in college.
My question is how do you adjust the "rate" of a spring without having to change the spring?
When you talk about "preloaded", are you actually compressing the spring? If so how does it change the "rate"?
Hooke's law is a principle of physics that states that the force needed to extend or compress a spring by some distance is proportional to that distance. That is F=kX where is k a constant factor characteristic of the spring, its stiffness.
BTW, it's been so long I had to google Hooke's law, did not pull it off the top of my head. :-)
So what all can effect the 'k'. Size of wire, material, diameter of the coil, and etc... What little googling I did, there was a technology where the spring attached to a lever and by changing the connecting point, there by the length of the lever, you could adjust the "rate".
So how is the rate changed? This whole discussion if fascinating. Have not been to a track in years, but back in those days your competitor did not share much. I mean they did help you with enough setup to keep you safe, but not much to make you fast. :-)
That's what I wanted.
For the suspension question, I'm using stock rear coil springs but they are preloaded. That means they are already compressed a good amount to increase initial spring rate.
However one loses suspension travel which means limited rough terrain ability. but for a track car or even a friday night car it works.
Thanks for tip, If I ever need more then I know that's an option.
I have all the preload/stiffness and height I need for now.
because I'm using front knuckles, the springs have to compress to even bolt. I made an adjustable height adapter. I can have lots of wheel gap and normal suspension or super stiff and perfect ride height.
Front springs with rear struts + front knuckles would give me too much spring rate.
Are the "stock rear springs" variable rate? Otherwise preload should not change the spring rate. I am not denying the effect (slowing weight transfer to the rear), just not seeing the physic yet. Be patient to the newbie. :-)
I found this web site http://www.zoomsquared.com/technical...#comment-11266 It had a pretty good explantion of what I was trying to ask, but still I did not see it totaly. Here was my question to him....
Something I am missing here. To compress the spring to 400lb/in of preload and the system is static or balanced, then as you said the spring pushing up with 400lb but the ring has to be pushing down with 400lb. Then when you add 938lb to the system is not the total weight now 1328lb? I know my thinking has to be flawed, it just been a while since my physic. And it was physic I at that :-). My only way of seeing this is some sort of potential energy cause by the preload, but my poor mind is not seeing it yet.
I asked the question to author and I am waiting on a reply.
front struts will also go into the rear upper mount.... so you can just use front struts in the rear with front springs but rear mounts on top
A Spring when at rest has a certain tension and can support X amount of weight before noticeable compression happens.
When you pre-compress it, the weight needed to compress it more is higher. The stock rear springs at rest can barely handle the weight of a lunch box in the trunk without dropping lol.
When compressing them in advance via a pre-load device then the initial rate of the spring is now higher because it starts with tighter coils. But you lose suspension travel.
Right now a 200lbs guy has a hard time even making the rear end drop even a little while jumping in the trunk.
The front engine turbo intake. The front turbo kit will be ready tomorrow.
you have any airflow diverters inside there?
dont block off the two crankcase vent holes that used to be part of the PCV system...i see you already have one threaded....you can tap into these and run simple 3/8ths hardline for each bank to have its own vent to a catch can/breather tank.
its craploads better than the VC breather or VC located vent hoses as the factory LIM will condensate and get the oil to fall out of suspension and drain back into the motor as opposed to sending it to the breather tank.
this is the FWD NA LIM but you get the idea
Its not block this is a temp plug. The rear port is threaded and will have a filter. Front will too but i dont have a filter in stock. Its possible to only run 1 because they are linked together from the same chamber
ah good, i was worried you were blocking it off to run the ****ty vc breather.
while yes they are connected by the crankcase, they are separate inside the LIM (oem, having the front as the fresh air feed to crankcase and the rear bank being the pcv draw passage)
because these are deep skirt blocks without web/bulkhead windows there is alot of energy wasted pushing air around inside the motor, half through the valley and half past the crank weights to the adjacent pairings at the windage tray/pan gasket
i would suggest both being utilized to make sure the windage pumping isnt pushing oil mist out. double the volume and you half the speed which is more time for oil to fallout of suspension.
New vents line lock.
Front engine now turbo too
Etc long week
Is that spoiler cutout for ventilation?
Sent from the Milky Way
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