You guys are killing me. I have so many parts cars laying around...really makes me want to twin engine my Park Avenue, it wouldn't cost much, just a lot of time and fab.
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You guys are killing me. I have so many parts cars laying around...really makes me want to twin engine my Park Avenue, it wouldn't cost much, just a lot of time and fab.
We installed the parts car trans in the back and will be doing 2nd gear launch to see if that can help keep the trans healthy.
Just ran out of time finishing the install to go racing.
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Yes we did do that. Surprisingky the car is well balanced and with the new suspension configuration it really helps keep the front wheels useful.
I need a much stiffer shock because with all the preload there is a little pogo effect. Otherwise it drives very nice and feels very stable and launches in straightline
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yeah we have to utilize double adj mustang front struts in the rear to have any compression adjustment
its sucks that we cant use any differential reaction forces on our heaps....
Thanks.
In my opinion these engine are really made to be turbo.
A lot less kr and much more power. In my 07 turbo gt im running 19-20psi daily on pump and methanol inj. With 17 deg advance
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That's not the point I was trying to make...
These engines when all stock, are Iron head Iron block. Which means low heat dissapation potential. That means KR !
Now add a Non intercooled M90 on it and you got a stock engine with a lot of KR even with low timing.
The same M90 on a full aluminum head and block with slightly lower compression could run a lot more boost and power without knock.
The turbo makes it easy to intercool properly plus it's more efficient. That all translate to being to run a lot of boost with no knock and more timing.
That's why I say they are made to be turbo. They don't have the right specs to take advantage of M90 on pump gas.
Lol^^
Dark, a m90 mustang with a v8. is only on 7psi, the 3800 at around the same power level has more than likley dropped down to a 2.8, do the same on that mustang and see what happens. just saying thats a really dumb analogy you made
anyways twinGTP check these shocks
http://www.americanmuscle.com/qa1-si...ntV1&year=2011
These are the right lenght for the GTP ?
IN the back I ended up with the factory shocks/springs but they are heavily preloaded to reduce squatting to a minimum.
I would need struts or shocks that are extremely stiff that are rear stock style.
I tip my hat to you. Pure awesome
single adjustable is useless you need to have compression adjustment so it's a double adjustable that you're looking for
I'm not talking about the spring or any of that the rear compresses so you're gonna want the valving stiff so that it sets down slowly.
if he's going to get conventional single adjustable rebound the only good option is to only put them in the front.
in the rear just get regular replacements. stiffer rebound in the rear is gonna do nothing for you. at least up front and they will help keep the front end from lifting as fast
When you get on the brakes on the top end, the rear rebound is super important. It prevents too quick of a weight transfer up front. In my case the springs are soo stiff that weight transfer isn't an issue however the Shock rate can't keep up and then you get the wave effect from front to back. That said It's not that bad at reasonable speed.
We did some 1/8 mile testing and it ran great no problems, didn't feel dangerous but we are trapping 6.8 @ 103 mph right now with the same power as on the video (60%)
But on the end of the 1/4 mile that is 132 mph+ and getting on the brakes might start a dance from front to back.
Not counting the fact I will be making a lot more power in the back and will be turbo in the front. So traps will be MUCH higher as well as E.T. much lower.
At the moment we are converting the front engine to turbo.
yeah you should play with your engine braking tables.
it makes a crapload of difference though you will want to reflash it if you're gonna drive it on the highway cuz otherwise it's quite annoying
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