Well the ends were $3 for 4 (bought for my friend also) and I have a soldering iron.
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12-14-2012
Well the ends were $3 for 4 (bought for my friend also) and I have a soldering iron.
12-14-2012
you need a plumbers soldering torch to get them on, and a lot of solder lol. you heat the piss out of the new end, ( in a vice) and fill it 1/2 way with solder, flux the wires, and stick the stripped end into the hot melted solder, hold it till it cools and its on for life. add shrink wrap when its real cold, any heat makes them shrink fast.
search you tube for how to solder battery cables. its the best way. and you should get some shrink wrap tubes to seal it off good and tight, anther 5 busks or so.
thats why in going pre made, it saves a few bucks in the end. you'll be up paying 10 bucks more then me in the end im sure. not like its a lot of money, im just cheap lol
but making them just the right size is nice as well.
12-14-2012
I'm just going to melt the solder into the wire and heat shrink tube it and wrap with electrical tape also and call it good.
12-14-2012
But if you think that won't work, I guess I could send the wire back and order this instead...Summit Battery Cable Starter to Switch 4 Gauge Black 40" Length Eyelet Ends Ea | eBay
12-14-2012
ff to 4:00, thats where he starts to solder them on. best way to do it if your gonna do it yourself.
12-14-2012
Actually it looks like the connectors I bought are the crimp style, so I'll just try that. The power wire for my subs is crimped, I don't see why this shouldn't work again.
12-14-2012
the truth is, crimped connectors suck. especially under the hood. solder is air tight, add the shrink tubes and its never gonna corrode on you. or come apart. unless you heat the piss out of it again.
12-14-2012
Eh, it'll work. I can always redo it easily if it starts to corrode.
12-15-2012
picked up a 4 gauge 40 inch pre made wire today, 30 inch should be the best fit, but they went from 19, 24 to 40 and then up from there, 40 inches is a bit long but not to bad.
it was just getting dusk as i put the wire on, and i can say the interior dash lights are a tad brighter, the windows move maybe a tad faster. head lights look brighter for sure, but we shall see for real later when i go to park it later on. aka in the real dark.
cost 8 beans.
12-15-2012
Yea I just put mine in also, same results, same cost.
12-15-2012
Yeah when the engine is not running there is not much change, but while driving with all lights and stereo going I noticed a big change. Hope that it helped yall out like it did for me. I forgot what forum I learned this trick off of two years ago.
12-15-2012
Well there shouldn't be any change when the engine is off.
12-15-2012
the head lights seem a bit brighter now in the dark.
one of these days ill finish the grounds off.
12-15-2012
I probably won't bother with that, but let us know when you do.
12-15-2012
ill probably pick up one of these extender bolts Side-Mount Battery Double Terminal Bolt Extension by Wirthco (part#30500) add another neg ground cable to the block and double stack the terminals with the new bolt, then put the body ground on the end of the bolt, then to the body. and thats my plan, probably run another 20 bucks.
12-15-2012
just threw this list together and added the discount code. not to bad, 16 bucks to finish it off.
big3list.jpg
12-20-2012
Pretty sure I got a code from the alt to battery wire LOL. Not sure if it tripped the SES light since that was already on. It was worth it though.
Have you done the grounds yet?
12-20-2012
haven't done the grounds yet, also have no codes being thrown around.
have noticed the best part is the daytime lights in the dash are brighter for sure. im liking that part so far the most.
12-20-2012
Have you scanned the car for codes? Might not trip the ses light.
12-20-2012
nope, not scanning at all. im all stock, no real need to yet.
car runs fine short of the coolant loss due to a bad head gasket. still running like a raped whore lol
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