I know abrasive has a nice write up on here somewhere but I can't find anything since this "update" happened to the site. I also went through all 17 pages of how to's and didn't see it, just a link that didn't work. Can anyone find it?
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I know abrasive has a nice write up on here somewhere but I can't find anything since this "update" happened to the site. I also went through all 17 pages of how to's and didn't see it, just a link that didn't work. Can anyone find it?
Support car and remove front tires. Remove the plastic splash shield that keeps you from seeing the mounts on both sides.
Driverside (trans mount) Remove all 4 15mm nuts holding the mount to subframe and bracket on trans. Using a board under the trans pan, jack it up until you can wiggle the mount out. Wiggle new one in and start the nuts on top to hold it in place. Lower down and allow the mount to drop in place. Tighten all 4 nuts. Put shield and tire back on.
Passenger side: (motor mount) Remove all for nuts from the mount. The two upper can be a bit tight on room. One way to work around this is to use a shallow socket and with the bottom nuts off, jack the motor slightly (board under oil pan). Loosen the two nuts equally and the mount will lower itself and not bind the ratchet between the mount and engine. Jack up enough to wiggle the mount out, wiggle the new one in and lower slowly while positioning the mount. Tighten all nuts, replace the shield and tire.
Lower car, torque lugs.
Thanks Bill
Bill you are awesome I had the same problem you did an awesome write up on this with pics if I can remember correctly and I have not been able to find it again either I am printing this one out. Just a bit worried about using a bottle jack and board to lift the trans and engine but my floor jack broke and right now I can't afford a new one. But looking at this I guess I should be ok. Anything else that I should change while I am under there? Car has 300,000 miles on and and a complete new suspension I plan on taking it on a 2,000 mile round trip real soon. Also could you tell me how I should know if I need to rebuild my calipers or replace them car stops fine just did new brakes and rotors all around and before I paint them wondering if I need to rebuild? I seem to remember my dad replacing brake cylinders every other brake change on his cars but Dad did have a bit of OCD.
Typically calipers are good until they leak. If one sticks before that, it's often the brake line hoses that are coming apart and causing a blockage that hangs up the caliper. Or caliper pins that are sticking.
Thanks guys, Sandman just changed tranny fluid 10,000 miles ago did a full flush and change cv joints were shot so figured what the hell. Bill can't believe I have gotten 300,000 out of the calipers and they are still good AWESOME thnaks again
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