Thread: MAF low input voltage, replaced maf, same symptoms

k the other day my car started acting up out of no where, well ive been having a wierd shifting issue off and on, but besides the point. it is a 97 GTP. i replaced the maf with a used one and having the same issues, but not as bad. before if i gave it anymore then just a tiny bit of throttle it would damn near die and had to baby it home. now it seems like when i give it throttle it sputters and has a hard time accelerating, similar problem as before. when its cold and in open loop, it runs great and shifts fine, but then when it goes into closed loop after warm up it runs like hell and shifts ****ty, noticed these two things correlate together. i have recently replaced all vac lines and made sure all connections are sealed and did the wd-40 trick and no improvement.

just a couple weeks ago i was having a misfire prob and a plug fouling issue, turns out i had bad coil and replaced the plug wires while i was at it and cured it. plugs are only a few months old and i drive ten minutes to work and back 5 days a week so fairly new and just regapped the plugs to .055 to see if i was having blow by with no improvement.

PLZ give me some advise, thanx

i pulled this off of a forum from doing a google search. the car that the code was thrown on was a 2001 SSEI;

"In a nutshell, a new mas air sensor for this vehicle tests out at 15 ohms between the dc voltage ckt and ground terminal of the mas air sensor without power connected. The indicating ckt also tests out at 15 ohms between the ground terminal the mas air sensor terminal. The ground wire for the ckt harness tests out at 3 ohms to ground. The dc voltage on the harness when power is turned on tests out at 13 volts to ground as it should.
The mas air sensor that was existing in the car tested out at 15 ohms between dc voltage ckt and ground terminal of mas air sensor.
The indicating ckt tested at o ohms between the indicating ckt and ground terminal of the mas air sensor.
What does this mean? It means the mas air sensor indicating ckt is open. Likely a result of an internal wire ckt broken or disintegrated due to the heat that is produced within the unit when voltage is applied.
After testing my mas air sensor, I replaced the existing one with the new one and the problem was solved. I had to use a OBD II tester to reset the MIL as it does not appear that it will reset itself.
Now that you have the solution, good luck with your repair. Thanks to all those before me who posted information that aided in my problem solving."

the only thing that i didnt do when i replaced the maf was reset the code like the guy did above who made that post, but still if the maf is replaced and suppose it is good, then wouldnt the computer still sense that and run fine even with the code thrown or would reseting it be manditory. i am having horrible mileage, went from 21-23 city to maybe 15

k, well i unpluged the batt for like 30 min so it could reset. pluged it back in and started it and let it idle for about 5+ min so it can warm up and calibrate then drove it lightly for 5 min with no probs. then went to do a WOT pull and ide say anything more then 30-40% throttle it begins to sputter, so i backed off and lightly sped up to speed with out problems for about 4 min and turned back to go home and it started acting like it would do with more throttle so i pulled over and unplugged the maf and started to go but it was sputtering so much that i pulled again and plugged the maf back in and started to go again and it was still sputtering real bad so i pulled over again and turned the car off and back on and drove off without problems under light throttle.

I AM SO LOST

i have heard of other sensors causing the code to trip for the maf, what else should i be looking at?

well the above post is true, other sensors could cause the code to trip. went to autozone today when i got off work and tested the volts for the maf plug and read as follows:

power to ground measured 11.25v
ref wire to ground measured at 5v with the acc on but engine not running

i couldnt back probe it so i tested the female connectors so the plug is getting power so the fuse isnt blown since its getting power and ive already swapped the maf so assuming it is good but i have another one that should be here by the end of the week.

when they scanned the computer the code that was read was p0102 but i have now seen two different deffinitions for this code 1. maf low input voltage, and the one from autozone 2. MAP or MAF sensor condition

here is what was printed out verbatem:
vehicles have one or more of these components. Engine load or the air volume entering the engine measured by these components. The computer has recognized a return signal error.
Probable cause
1.-vacuum hose off, cracked, or passage blocked
Engine mechanical timing condition
2. throttle body intake tube loose, off, or cracked
3. map defective
4. maf dirty or defective

what i have trouble shot so far

replaced vacuum lines and triple checked these and did the wd-40 trick to pinpoint a vacuum leak- ok
has aluminum intake tube, and checked the tube fitting for the throttle body and is on tight- ok
replaced maf already with no change and checked the voltage at the maf-ok

so could be a vacuum line still, or the map sensor

here is what was printed out verbatem:
vehicles have one or more of these components. Engine load or the air volume entering the engine measured by these components. The computer has recognized a return signal error.
Probable cause
1.-vacuum hose off, cracked, or passage blocked
Engine mechanical timing condition
2. throttle body intake tube loose, off, or cracked
3. map defective
4. maf dirty or defective

what i have trouble shot so far

replaced vacuum lines and triple checked these and did the wd-40 trick to pinpoint a vacuum leak- ok
has aluminum intake tube, and checked the tube fitting for the throttle body and is on tight- ok
replaced maf already with no change and checked the voltage at the maf-ok

so could be a vacuum line still, or the map sensor

well to update this thread and to help others who may have this similar problem in the future and are searching for a solution, here is where i stand

after well after have replaced all the vac lines, replaced the maf with two, and replaced the map sensor i have not solved my issue. so i am left standing at this point:

before this issue i replaced the stock tb, with a similar stage 1 ported tb with no screen and swapped my IAC and MAF sensors over to the ported unit. i noticed that this issue began about a week after i swapped the TB. so after replacing the map with no change i am doing some process of elimination. i put the screen back in the TB along with a known to be good TPS sensor from the stock TB. if no change then the stock TB will go back on to see if that cures the problem

Well I put stage 1 port to give a reference mostly, its not a zzp ported unit but equivelant. The tps was sent with the ported unit, I swapped over the IAC and MAF from my stocker. Yesterday I put the tps from my stcoker just to be sure that it isn't that sensor causing problems. And yes it begins sputtering and bogging but I think it is overfueling bad

You swapped your factory TB with a ZZP Stage 1?

Common...they are known for making your car run like dog sh1t because they screw with the settings on the throttle plate.

No not a zzp piece. I bought it from a member that just said it was ported with no specifics, so I'm assuming that it was ported at home or by another member or vendor.

Well after putting the screen into the tb and it runs a little better. My next option is to put the stock tb back on and see if that fixes the problem

i havnt had a chance to put the stock tb back on yet but i figured this morning that ide lay into when its still in open loop and not a single problem, the problem only exists when in closed loop. when i get my auto tap in ill check out all the parameters