Thread: 97 GTP multiple issues

Originally Posted by Ainrev

Hopefully I won't get flagged for the title being non-descriptive. I have a few issues with my 97 GTP that I haven't been able to just look up. Also, I'm trying to get answers all at once I guess...

Anyway, first issue is a big one: Nosecone on my supercharger has aged bearings now. I got a lot of mixed answers before about it. Someone said I could buy just the bearings and with a good mechanic, it'd cost me almost nothing. Another person said I need a new nosecone. Help! My personal mechanic (step-father, former owner) unhooked the supercharger belt to keep from damaging the engine about 2 years ago. While 24mpg is nice, I like power, and I want to get back to doing my favorite thing: Racing!

My second issue is my temp gauge. It keeps spiking to redzone on and off. Yes, the plastic bend had a split and we got a new one. Yet the problem still remains. I'd had multiple rubber hose bursts and had gotten new ones. We also bled the air out the system. I drove 40mi. every day, and then mad a 1000mi. move 4 months ago with the constant spiking, yet I didn't burst into flames.

Third is important, and in two parts. My air conditioner. I guess the steel rod for the setting (right side knob) is frozen up. I've broken 3 new knobs over this. Guess this problem is moot compared to the other A/C problem. My settings 1-4 don't work. It's full-blast 5 or nothing. I should note I've had what I've been told is a bad bearing in the blower motor fan on the passenger side, and that I need to get a new one.

Fourth is actually done. Maybe someone can tell me where to post this potentially helpful info. I kept feeling a knocking after I went over and down a newly paved (very poorly; was a dropoff!) railroad crossing. Apparently the slam or a piece of cement knocked off my cv axle boot on the right side and the 3 hooves (knobs, fingers) were knocking against my cars frame!!! The car drove perfectly fine for more than I want to say, mainly because my mechanic said it was a miracle I hadn't died... multiple times. It's been replaced and my front motor mounts were also replaced, which were slightly damaged as well.

My poor car was my daily driver until after the move... I've been scared to drive her. Having moved away from my mechanic makes me nervous and now I'm reaching for help!

Yes, you can replace the bearings and the seal in the nose. You can buy the two bearings and a seal from places like ZZP or rollingperformance.com. You will need a press to remove the gear from the shaft to change the inner pulley. I'm sure a machine shop can do it for you for a reasonable price. rollingperformance.com has a how to for doing this. Your bearings may not be shot though. If it sounds like rocks tumbling, then it is probably the supercharger coupler. That can also be bought from the same sites mentioned above.

As far as the cooling system goes, have you checked to make sure the temp spikes are real or could it be a short in the wiring on the temp sensor? If it's real, then I would flush the entire cooling system and refill it. Make sure you bleed all the the air out when done.

The blower not working on any setting except 5 is 99% of the time the blower resistor. It is located under the passenger side of the dash right against the firewall behind the blower.

I'm right there with Heath on doing the cooling flush and or checking wiring for the temp issue. Assuming your coolant is full and there's no air in the system.

On the SC. I've been able to do this in my garage w/o a press. The toughest part is having the proper SC pulley pulling tool on hand for the actual pulley. Once that's off, I've used basic stuff and a general 3 jaw puller for the bearings. A press is nice, but not always 100% necessary.

On the blower speed. I know the resistor is the typical issue, didn't I also hear that the ignition switch could be the culprit on this too?

The ignition switch? Wow, I forgot all about that. My emergency switch or... drats. The key won't come out. I've been using the key release button under the steering column for over a year! Always made my cleaner nervous!

We did the cooling flush. Today I had another person look at it. He drove it around and the radiator was almost completely empty. Maybe I have a leak? He topped it off, cooling and all, and readings were still the same. He didn't go into specifics, but he probably bled the system again.

Quick question. How often do you have to put in supercharger oil? I never did the 5 years I've had it, cause my mechanic didn't know anything really concerning S/C. Keep in mind I didn't always have it hooked up either. The scratching noise you can hear from inside the car. Mechanic while back had me take a screwdriver to the side of the cone, and you could hear how bad it sounded through that. <<; Honestly that part was weird, but he did get me to unhook my S/C belt again because of it.

I brought this up with my mechanic too. Isn't not having the S/C hooked up detrimental to the car, esp. since it came with it?

So the blower resistor... something I can do myself? How about cost? And the a/c knob, any way to loosen the stupid steel bar so it doesn't break the expensive replacements?

So I don't need a press...? I wouldn't really trust any of the mechanics around here. So if I can do it in a stocked home garage, that'd be nice. But if it compromises core refund if I have to get a new one... might just get new one. I don't really want to risk it unless it's safe.

If you run into a problem...I'll ship you a great shape Gen 3 (the one you need) charger that's sitting on my shelf holding up the dust for $100

$100?! Is that the entire S/C or the nosecone? Either way, Give me a week please. I just had to have emergency surgery to have a wisdom tooth taken out!

Are you sure you don't want more? I don't want to underpay you if it's in great condition.

**Well now I feel stupid. Forgot to mention the other reason the S/C was unhooked. I was never getting the full PSI out of it. My info computer always showed half the bar. Just sometimes I could get the PSI to jump to max.

you would be amazed at the prices for parts here. 100-150 is the going price for a used S/C'er. Bill is a respected member here so im sure its in great shape. as far as the half boost issue.. look under supercharger snout... theres a rubber T vac line that slips on teh intake manifold. id bet that urs is dry rotted and creating a vac leak. i have had this prob before.. just find a new rubber T or buy the whole vac line package from the dealership for 30+ dollars and replace them all. half boost on stock boost gauge is def evidence of a vac leak though.

on your coolant issue.. im thinking u have bad LIM gasket.. "lower intake manifold" look around the supercharger front and back and see if u have little puddles of water in teh nooks and crannies of the LIM and injectors. hope this helps.

as far as teh supercharger itself.. like said above if it sounds like rocks tumbling around inside the case.. thats def ur coupler.. very easy and cheap fix if so.

Also did you ever got WOT? Rarely does my boost gauge get full in regulardriving... Actually I rarely use boost in daily driving.

I don't really "drive normally." But I'm not an idiot. I don't dog my car.

Not sure what WOT is... is that 'wear over time?'

I found out yesterday my radiator is now filled up with rust colored stuff. Time for a new radiator? This did happen 5 months ago. The only driving since then has been the 1000mi. trip from TN to Fayetteville, NC and maybe 50mi. around town.

Lost the bid on a truck I was wanting, so my monies free for my precious again!

I'll check that vac leak idea tomorrow, I've been working like a dog since I had to take a week off to have a wisdom tooth surgically removed!

I bet that might be it though... I had to replace spark plug wires that crumbled in hand and the coolant rubber pipes were all the same. Any other things I might want to check for rotting?

I wouldn't replace the radiator if it isn't leaking. A flush will do just fine. WOT stands for wide open throttle by the way.