how do I do this. I know theres a thread, I cant find it now.
I had somthing to do with flipping the rubber?
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hey do u have an updated link to that, that link just takes me to the home page
I just flipped mine the other day. Make sure to do each side one at a time so it's easier to get them bolted back in. You just take the bolt out that goes through the bushing on the dog bone. With that disconnected you then feed the bolt through the bushing again and tighten it down. You then turn it towards the motor which your wrench or socket until you get the solid end of the bushing facing the motor. It will take some WD-40 to convince them to move and once they have you put everything back like it was. I wish I had pictures, it would make it really easy to understand but overall it's a simple mod and you shouldn't have any issues, just make sure to do one side at a time because the motor won't move forward as much that way.
use a friggin botle and keep workin it, i would soak it hours before you will do the flip then keep it soaked while you flip them
Be careful on how hard you twist them though i know a few ppl that have torn them trying to flip them.
Thanks guys for the quick reply's! but what is the advantage to doing this?
easy to do. from what I understand it just limits the engine movement a little and therfore (in theory) more horsepower/torque gets to the fronts wheels, albeit very minimal
If you look at the factory placement of the rubber mount you'll notice it sits vertical...and when they are turned 90* they become horizontally placed taking all of that movement out of the equation, which translates into less engine movement, less wear on the lower mounts, better power transfer, etc.
^^^yes to the last 2 posts!
there are so many "why didnt GM do...?" questions out its just...yea
there are no drawbacks, it just limits engine movement
they do tons of stuff at the factory that pepole like to modify... ever hear of a cold air intake? why dont they just do that at the factory....
the u-bend delete is another example. also, what about headers?? are you saying that if there was any real benefit from headers they would have just done it at the factory??
Last edited by Jakegday; 09-25-2010 at 12:38 PM.
Actually, the examples you cite are flawed.
There are many performance cars that come from the factory with "headers", i.e.: tuned exhaust manifolds. Also, many cars come with a cold-air induction system. The difference is the market segment the product is aimed at.
The reason our cars didn't have these from the factory is a matter of cost, comfort, and ease of assembly and replacement. Steel headers don't last as long as cast iron, which would make the factory liable for replacement. (Many dealership-modified musclecars in the '60's and '70's came with their headers in the trunk for the owner to install to avoid warranty issues.) Our cars actually do have a "CAI", albeit a restrictive one to reduce noise. You may like the roar that a cone intake creates, but most people like a quiet induction. Both of your examples increase noise, something the engineers try to reduce on a car built for the masses. I believe the "U-bend" in the exhaust also helped speed assembly on the line.
Factory engineers are pretty smart guys, and most of them are enthusiasts. They have to design and produce a product that fits within certain parameters for a particular market segment. If they can do something better for no cost, they will generally do it. So if turning a rubber bushing 90 degrees is so great, why didn't they do it?
I believe the answer was posted above. If doing this "no-cost" modification results in less engine movement, that translates to more engine vibration being transferred to the chassis. That means less driver/passenger comfort and potentially shorter component life.
Don't get me wrong. I like to modify my cars/trucks/bikes to suit my liking and I'm willing to trade off some comfort/reliability if necessary to obtain my goals. I just want to know what, why and how the mods I'm doing are going to effect the whole package.
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