Thread: 98 Regal GS - Dummy Lights, Tranny and Windows Oh My!

Finally got my Regal registered and on the road and found a couple quirks with it, got some questions and a couple might fall under the W-Body Noob category.

First, it's been like this since I got it but nearly every dummy light is on... Low Coolant, SES, Anti-Lock, Brake and Trac Off.

Coolant is right where it should be, the brakes are fine (haven't gotten ABS to activate, but then again I didn't try) checked the codes the day I got it in December and nothing came up. Checked them again yesterday and still nothing came up. I can hit the traction control button all day but the light still stays on. Is this a common problem or do I have a bigger issue?

Second, my rear left window falls down into the door, I assume the track is broken or something because it'll pull the window down when I hit the switch but will not bring it back up. Common problem and is it easy (enough) to fix without breaking my balls? I assume replacements can be found in any W-Body also...

Third, I don't know if it's my tranny making noise or what, but it's only when I'm in gear, stopped with the brake applied. It makes sort of a metal on metal-ish grinding sound but as soon as I throw it in neutral it goes away. If I rev up against the brakes while it's in gear the sound goes away.... Tranny shifts good otherwise except when it's in Overdrive and I go like 5% throttle it seems like the TC is locking and unlocking repeatedly. But like I said, all other conditions are excellent and the locking/unlocking bit only happened once but I know it's not proper, my old pile of **** Grand Cherokee did tha before the tranny let loose.

Also random question, should I use the Performance Shift button or is that just a gimmick that'll screw the tranny up worse? I know some "performance" cars have buttons like that but they do more harm than good I.E. Subaru SVX.

Any input is greatly appreciated as I am brand new to owning W-Bodies but not performance cars with troubles, I did own a Typhoon swapped Bravada and a Mazdaspeed6 after all. :P

Ah, well that certainly answers a few questions! =D

The supercharger coupling seems almost too easy to replace, I'm ordering the ZZP coupler right now.

The low coolant light will go away once I swap out the coolant for green stuff, 86,000 miles of Dex Crap is 86k too long, I'll make sure all air is burped out.

ABS being related to TC...DUH. Sometimes I wonder how I put my socks on in the morning...

Now just for the window issue and SES light with no codes and I'll be good to go guys! =D

Couple of things to add.

On the low coolant light, you checked the level in the radiator, right? Don't just go by the level in the overflow. I don't mean for that to sound condescending, if you're used to a pressurized overflow, it's a different system. Assuming it really is full, it could be a bubble, but it's more likely a dirty sensor. It's right under the radiator fill neck, you can pull it, clean it, and put it back in and it may fix the problem.

The SVS+ABS+Trac Off is generally a bad wheel speed sensor, which is integrated into the hub. There will be a code for it, but you have to have a code reader that will read body, chassis, and brake codes, where most will just read engine codes. You didn't mention SVS, though, only SES, so maybe that's not it.

The Brake light is usually related to the emergency brake being on, but I think it'll come on if the fluid in the brake reservoir is low. Check that.

You say the window fell into the door so it's probably too late to check, but could you pull it up by hand? If so, it's a common problem where the plastic piece that the cable connects to breaks. I'm up to 7 of them. You have to take off the door panel and replace the regulator, but it's pretty easy. I'm down to 20 minutes start to finish.

The performance shift button will raise shift pressures and slightly raise shift points. Good for the clutches, bad for the hard parts. Take your pick.

Originally Posted by Scimmia

On the low coolant light, you checked the level in the radiator, right? Don't just go by the level in the overflow. I don't mean for that to sound condescending, if you're used to a pressurized overflow, it's a different system. Assuming it really is full, it could be a bubble, but it's more likely a dirty sensor. It's right under the radiator fill neck, you can pull it, clean it, and put it back in and it may fix the problem.

Radiator and overfill are right where they should be. Once I switch to the green stuff and the light is still on I'll check the sensor for sure.

The SVS+ABS+Trac Off is generally a bad wheel speed sensor, which is integrated into the hub. There will be a code for it, but you have to have a code reader that will read body, chassis, and brake codes, where most will just read engine codes. You didn't mention SVS, though, only SES, so maybe that's not it.

I think my buddy has a reader that does all the codes, I'm still curious why the SES light is illuminated yet no codes come up...

The Brake light is usually related to the emergency brake being on, but I think it'll come on if the fluid in the brake reservoir is low. Check that.

This is true, haven't checked that yet, I only drove it one night and it was cold as **** so I didn't feel like peeking around under the hood.

You say the window fell into the door so it's probably too late to check, but could you pull it up by hand? If so, it's a common problem where the plastic piece that the cable connects to breaks. I'm up to 7 of them. You have to take off the door panel and replace the regulator, but it's pretty easy. I'm down to 20 minutes start to finish.

Yeah I can pull it up by hand, it hasn't fallen all the way in yet. What is the exact name of that plastic piece so if I can't find one in the junkyard I can order it from somewhere?

The performance shift button will raise shift pressures and slightly raise shift points. Good for the clutches, bad for the hard parts. Take your pick.

Yeah I figured as much, I'll play that one by ear.

Thanks for the helpful responses!

Originally Posted by KFCOrBust

I think my buddy has a reader that does all the codes, I'm still curious why the SES light is illuminated yet no codes come up...

With all of the lights you have, there has to be some codes (plural). There's actually very few scanners out there that will do all of the codes. Tech II, HP Tuners, and Snap-On are the ones that come to mind right away. There are even some out there that will do all of the standard powertrain codes, but not the manufacturer specific powertrain codes. I did run into a situation a while ago where I couldn't get any codes from a Dodge truck, but the electronics on that truck were in bad, bad shape. The OBD-II port had even been "relocated". A couple of month later I tried again and finally got the code.

Originally Posted by KFCOrBust

Yeah I can pull it up by hand, it hasn't fallen all the way in yet. What is the exact name of that plastic piece so if I can't find one in the junkyard I can order it from somewhere?

The plastic piece is part of the regulator, so you have to replace the whole thing. It's less common, but sometimes the cable just breaks as well; the fix is the same, though, replace the regulator.

Originally Posted by Scimmia

With all of the lights you have, there has to be some codes (plural). There's actually very few scanners out there that will do all of the codes. Tech II, HP Tuners, and Snap-On are the ones that come to mind right away. There are even some out there that will do all of the standard powertrain codes, but not the manufacturer specific powertrain codes. I did run into a situation a while ago where I couldn't get any codes from a Dodge truck, but the electronics on that truck were in bad, bad shape. The OBD-II port had even been "relocated". A couple of month later I tried again and finally got the code.

Alright, so I'm quick to assume (also haven't had a car with an SVS and SES light choice before...) and it IS the SVS light lit, not the SES...So I'd say by what you guys have said that I likely have a bad wheel sensor.

Sometimes I fail so hard at the simplest things it amazes me!

The plastic piece is part of the regulator, so you have to replace the whole thing. It's less common, but sometimes the cable just breaks as well; the fix is the same, though, replace the regulator.

Replacing the regulator should be no problem, I've done it in my Blazers and that involves drilling out the rivets and finding random bolts to fit.