Thread: 3800 SII main cap removal

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  1. #21 Re: 3800 SII main cap removal 
    GXP Level Member Turbocharged400sbc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stone4779 View Post
    Sooo.where could I go for those concrete anchors?

    Would Home Depot have them?
    Quote Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
    where can you get the concrete anchor?
    got it at menards, redhead sleeve anchor, any place should have em
    3" (or 4") long x 1/2"
    ITW Red Head Dynabolt Sleeve Anchor


    where does it need to be clearanced, etc....could you post more details ??
    if you look at the pic youll see the three side slots are opened up, i used an 1/8 inch wide cutoff wheel with the sleeve removed from the bolt.
    i also ground the leading edges into an arc with a taper to better insert it even after the first use/removal. the end of the bolt was ground with two flats to match the cap.


    Thanks man its because I have been all excited about rebuilding my motor and Im having difficulty removing the main caps...had no idea they were pressed in lol...Got one off (#1) but cant get the others off...gonna try pounding on the crank with something(got a new one anyways)
    glad to hear the 2x4 trick worked fer ya. remeber to not overtighten the sleeve anchors, sneak up on the tq, the worst that happens is they slowly pull outta the cap while using the slide hammer, if you overtighten them you can twist the sleeves and make it a pita to straighten em out to reuse... i've yanked 8 maincaps so far and they are pretty beatup but at 2.50$ for the two anchor package, overall its pretty cheep.
    Quote Originally Posted by UR LOSN View Post
    yes they should!!!!!!

    Jey James... any luck on your oil priming thoughts???? I'm interested in those!!!!
    get a 2-3inch ~1.5 ft long steel pipe with two npt rounded end caps, drill a hole in the top one that you can pull a tire valve stem through (gotta add air pressure). the bottom one drill and tap to 1/4 npt apply sealant to the pipe and thread it on for no leaks, screw in a ball valve (pressure gauge optional), and nipple (for reg hose, or a fitting for an alternate hose setup (turbo feed hose, an line etc)) screw in the other end of the hose into the oil pressure sender/or the lateral oil passage near the PS pump boss, push the hose over the nipples etc.

    close ball valve and remove top of steel pipe (btw i used duct tape and mechanics wire to hang it from the hood latch loop) fill with ~1 qt of oil (~halfway up the pipe) thread the top/fill cap on presurize with a air chuck/pressure gauge to ~20psi. and with the hose connected to the engine open the ball valve.

    if you remember what it weighs before adding oil let if flow till ya get close, remove oil hose/fitting (unless ya have a good quality hose) reinstall oil pressure sender/etc and start the engine within an hour
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  2. #22 Re: 3800 SII main cap removal 
    I live here. SyntheticShield's Avatar
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    That sounds an awful like the pre-oiling system Amsoil sells that pushes some oil through the system prior to the engine starting.
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  3. #23 Re: 3800 SII main cap removal 
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    Quote Originally Posted by SyntheticShield View Post
    That sounds an awful like the pre-oiling system Amsoil sells that pushes some oil through the system prior to the engine starting.
    yeah i wouldnt doubt it... just 20-30$ in parts, cheap and effective...
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  4. #24 Re: 3800 SII main cap removal 
    I live here. SyntheticShield's Avatar
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    I may have to build me one of those and try it out.

    I am glad to see you back around here. I surely missed your insight and wit.
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  5. #25 Re: 3800 SII main cap removal 
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    Thanks man, I really appreciated it!

    I wouldnt need it if it wasnt for needing to removing the caps to check the Plastigage etc.

    Thanks again!
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  6. #26 Re: 3800 SII main cap removal 
    GXP Level Member Blown97's Avatar
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    Looks good man!!
    3.4", 3" cated DP, SLP Air box, TB spacer, 180* Thermo, "Bilemke Tuning".

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