Here is a list of headers that fit our cars Issues with them and what not. Also info on the plog and dp combo.
Note: All headers for 97-03 will also fit 04+ cars, except obx they fit nothing with out modification.
This is what you want for clamps for the cross over. Band clamp http://www.fixthisride.com/img_parts...22_33272_i.jpg
Install write up for speed daddy/ssac http://www.grandprixforums.net/speed...eup-32920.html
You will also need to extend the front 02 sensor harness with all headers except for zzp headers with the 02 bung in the cross over.
Speed Daddy $220 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-03...item27ae5dd4f4
Pros: direct copy of SSAC headers,cheap
Cons: slip fits, 02 sensor hits floorboard on some cars.
ZZP HEADERS starting at $689 found at ZZPerformance
Pros: They are stainless steel, 2 piece with one slip joint for the cross over,1.75" primaries.
Cons: some have issues with contact with fans, very pricy.
TOG HEADERS starting at $749 found at 3800 Performance - high performance aftermarket car parts for your Grand Prix, Monte Carlo, Impala, Regal, Bonneville, and V6 F-body!!
Pros: No slip joints, stainless steel, 1.75" primaries,Tog extremes have huge primaries for extreme builds.
Cons: Have to be welded in most expensive in the group.
SLP Headers starting at $689 also found at 3800performance
Pros Stainless steel, 1 5/8" primaries
Cons Have to be welded in, have leaky flex section.
S&S Headers starting at $664 found at HeaderMania.com - Home Of S&S Headers Online Store
Pros: Two pice design with no slip joints. Very easy to seal.
Cons: 2.5" dp,1.5" primaries, have to weld in dp
Pacesetter Headers starting at $349 found at W Body Store and others
Pros: 1.75" primaries, can be bolt in
Cons: Most have sealing issues, mild steel, most have them welded
http://www.grandprixforums.net/f73/l...ion-16085.html
SSautochrome headers $299 found at Turbo Kits, Turbo Manifolds, Import Performance Products, SSAutochrome Inc.
Pros: cheap, stainless steel,1.75" Primaries,3"dp complete bolt in
Cons: 2 slip joints on cross over, U bend in dp, some had issues with 02 sensor contacting floor of car
OBX and other ebay headers $299 found at eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Pos: Stainless steel, 1.75" primaries
Cons: Cross over is built wrong and has to be cut and rewelded, 2.5" down pipe.
Non header exhaust options
Plog starting at $179 found at ZZPerformance
Pros can be used for turbo set up, easy install, cheap
Cons does not flow as well as headers, only replaces front manifold
Ported manifolds buy a dremel and do them your self
Pros: Pretty much free
Cons: Offers the least amount of flow
Down pipe starting at $89 found from most vendors
Pros: replaces restrictive factory dp, bolt in, easy install
Cons: can not be used with headers
Speedy daddy/SSAC headers with the down pipe fixed. (Thatks to Silver GTP for the pics and write up)
Here's a summary of what it took to make it: I bought a new v-band clamp with flanges off e-bay for about $25 iirc. The high flow cat and flex came from ZZP for about $100. All the piping used came from the original downpipe. The rear header was cut just after the collector (the top of the original flex). The short, straight pipe was cut and welded onto the end of the cat. The slip fit right before the rear O2 was kept in place allowing the cat to be slid out of the rear half of the exhaust. The new flex was welded onto the front of the cat. A short piece of straight pipe was welded on after the collector and a bung was added for the wideband. The part of the stock sink trap with the v-band was cut off at the angle needed to match up to the new flex and welded on. One of the flanges from the new v-band was welded to the bottom of the rear header. Everything was then installed. I also cut the crossover and put a flex in since the ends of it don't slide straight in the way it's made. Band clamps were placed at the 3 slip joints that are left.
Most choose to delete the egr system when installing headers. The pros to this are eliminating chances of exhaust leaks, less build up of carbon in the intake manifold, prettier engine bay. The cons, you will lose 2-3 mpg on the highway unless you get a custom tune with higher timing in the cruise cells. The way most delete the egr system is to cut the tubes coming form the egr base and remove the mounting flanges for the LIM and exhaust manifold. Then by inserting a penny in one and a nickel in the other and using some copper RTV to help seal it bolt the flange to the intake and header respectively. I chose a different way. I cut off the egr tube on the header and welded the hole shut on the primary and filled the mounting flange that goes on the intake.
Most headers have a ceramic coated option. This coating helps retain heat and prevents rust. Not completely necessary, recommended for mild steel headers. If anyone sees any miss information, or has more please post and I will add it. Please no pissing match on who's headers are the best. This is just an informational thread.
Originally Posted by ZR1Vette09
kinda dont want to change plans and wait longer lol. but if you say the flow is good then bring it on.
