Thread: Spark Plugs on '04

My '04 needs new plugs and I'm wondering if there are any gotchas trying to get them swapped - especially the back ones. It's a normally aspirated 3.8L.

Thanks!

Credit goes to beyerch from clubgp.

Tools/Supplies
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#1) If you have stock wires and your mileage is over 30,000, save yourself the trouble and buy new wires. Just do it.
#2) There is a spark plug snake like thing that i use to start the plug when putting it back in. Its about a 6" long flexible shaft thing. The one end firmly holds the tip of the spark plug and the other hand has a twisty knob. You turn the nob the spark plug turns. Very flexible and very worth while. Makes the back a little easier. Of course optional.
#3) If using NGK's with those annoying screw on caps, get some loc-tite to hold them in. Save yourself the time now.
#4) Buy an extra plug or two. Sometimes you snap one. After about 12 spark plug changes, I've personally never broken one until yesterday. However, I'd recommend at least 1 extra so that you don't have to waste a trip to the store....
#5) Dialectric grease for the plugs, etc.
#6) Vice Grip or other good grip device. Worst case, string or dental floss
#7) Long Flat head screwdriver.
#8) Gapping gauge
#9) Rachet w/ 6" extension
#10)Spark plug socket
#11)15 mm wrench
#12)15 mm socket.
#13)Telescoping Magnetic pickup tool. Don't ask, just have one.


What to do
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Instructions assume changing wires as well as plugs

0 - Disconnect negative terminal of the battery. ALWAYS disconnect the battery when working under the hood.
1 - Take out new plug wires. Sort them in length order. The order will be for cylinders 1,3,5,2,4,6. Depending on the kit you buy the back ones 2,4,6 may all be the same length. (not a problem)
2 - Take out 6 spark plugs. Make sure they look ok. Then gap then all to your desired gap. stock plugs @ .055 isn't a bad thing.
NOTE:If your plugs have the caps that screw in, now is the time to loctite them down. If NGK's, these things WILL come loose and some point and that is bad news. Do this now to save yourself trouble later.

3 - While paying CAREFUL attention to how they are routed, remove wires 1,3,5 from coils and spark plugs. You also can pop off the black rail that holds the wires together. Use a screwdriver to pry it. Pull it straight up and it will slide out.
NOTE : If you cannot pull them off, attach your vice grip to the boot. Make enough grip that you cannot just pull the grip off. You should place the handle of the vice grip so that you can then use the screwdriver to leverage force on it. The plug wire will pop right off. (if using string tie string around boot and pull.)

4 - Take the heat shields and plastic protectdors off of wires 1,3,5 and put on new wires 1,3,5.
5 - Remove plugs 1, 3, 5. For all 3 of these plugs, you will need the 6" extension.
6 - Get 3 plugs and put them in 1, 3, 5.
NOTE : Be sure that when tightenting you have the rachet perfect STRAIGHT/LEVEL and that you do not over tighten. Rachet the spark plug until it is tight and then give it a little more maybe a 1/8th of a turn, thats it.
7 - Take the diaelectric grease and put some of the tips of sparkplugs 1,3,5. If you are so inclinded do the same to the coil tips. Reconnect wires 1, 3, 5.
8 - Reinsert black wire rail by sliding it back down onto the valve cover. Then fit wires back onto the guides on the side of the rail.
9 - Go inside your car. Put down the emergency brake.
10 - Put the car in neutral
11 - Remove both motor mount bolts. The bolts are 15mm. Take your racket w/ the 15mm socket and the 15mm wrench and remove the bolts.
12 - Now, look at the motor mount to the left. You will notice that there are TWO bolt holes. You want to pull the engine forward so that you can put bolt through the mount and into the SECOND hole. The easiest way to do this is to grab the black bracket that is directdly behind the super charger. (This is the one used to hold the engine cover in place in the rear.) Grab the bracket with you left hand. Hold the bolt in your right hand. Pull the engine forward and then place the bolt through the mount and into the second hole. This buy you about another 4-6".
13 - Remove Wire Looms. For the back set of wires there are two wire looms. They are located on the back of that bracet you just grabbed. To remove them use the flat head screwdriver and push on the "pointy" part of the loom. At the same time, pull on it from the other side and they will pop right off.
14 - After paying CAREFUL attention to the wire routing, remove Plugs wires 2,4,6. Disconnect 2,4,6 from the coils. Now these are harder! If you haven't remove your stock ones yet, this are going to be tough.
HINT 1 : If you cannot pull them off, attach your vice grip to the boot. Make enough grip that you cannot just pull the grip off. You should place the handle of the vice grip so that you can then use the screwdriver to leverage force on it. The plug wire will pop right off. (if using string tie string around boot and pull.)

By using hint #1 I was able to pop all 3 off in under 20 seconds each...
HINT 2 : It is easiest to get at cylinder 4 from the driver's side. You can fit your arm down by the transmission dipstick area and then reach back. IT is much more difficult from the passenger side. Get #2 from the passenger side and #4 and #6 from driver's side of car.

15 - After removing the wires from the plugs, take them out of the two wires looms by using the flat head screw driver to pop open the looms. (set them somewhere safe.)
16 - Take the head shields, and plastic covers and place them on NEW wires 2,4,6.
17 - Remove spark plugs 2,4,6. For #2 and #4, you will need the 6" extension on the rachet. For #6, you do not need an extension.
18 - Insert 3 new spark plugs in 2,4,6. use the super duper flexible spark plug thing-a-ma-bob metioned in the parts/supplies list.
19 - Take the diaelectric grease and put some of the tips of sparkplugs 2,4,6. If you are so inclinded do the same to the coil tips. Reconnect wires 2, 4, 6.
20 - Place the wires looms back onto the metal bracket and then place the wires in them and lock them.
21 - Now, put the engine back to its normal position by pulling it forward. While doing that, remove the bolt from the mount so that the engine falls back to its normal position.
22 - Using your 15mm stuff, tighten both motor mounts.
23 - Make sure you have removed all tools, etc from the engine bay of the car.
24 - Start the car and see how it sounds!
25 - If everything ok, you are done.


Notes
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When facing the engine from the front of the car, the spark plugs are in the following order...

-#2------#4-----#6
---Supercharger---
#1------#3------#5

Hey, great post, Thanks for the help!!!

Thats a good post...but If you look on your dogbones you will see a extra hole...Unscrew them and then use a torque strap to pull it forward then put the screw in the second hole...you will beable to reach all plugs just fine! Im only 5'1 (if im lucky) So I had to lay ontop of my SC to reach them!

Whoa!! Holy zombie!

Being that it's brought up, I didn't have to loosen the dog bones. The one that threw me was that you have to get the closest driver firewall side from the passenger side. I used to sit on the engine and reach down, but hell with that nonsense.

That spark plug tool thing he talks about; you can just use an old piece of hose that fits over the plug. Lol

Glad you got it done!