Thread: Thoughts on the best way to combat KR on a stock-ish car

see how with one degree of kr your timing is 14. take that kr away and you'd be at stock 16 degrees.

with a tune you can edit the recovery rate and it helps bring the timing back or kill the kr altogether. my kr always started at 420 rpm too. you seem to get some at 3k. kinda odd.

your ltft are saying lean too. but when you go wot the trims lock in at what they were just before entering pe mode. pe is what commands the afr to 11's.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

see how with one degree of kr your timing is 14. take that kr away and you'd be at stock 16 degrees.

with a tune you can edit the recovery rate and it helps bring the timing back or kill the kr altogether. my kr always started at 420 rpm too. you seem to get some at 3k. kinda odd.

your ltft are saying lean too. but when you go wot the trims lock in at what they were just before entering pe mode. pe is what commands the afr to 11's.

I hate that I never logged it before I put the intake on, as I can only HOPE that there was a benefit there. As far as the ltft's, I've noticed that, too, and between that and a mysterious occaisional stumble at idle, and coolant disappearing without any noticeable trace, I am willing to put money on it that I need to do the lim gasket. wouldn't be surprised if that helped all three issues.

spray the top of the engine down with carb cleaner or the likes. you might have a small vac leak. hit the tb gasket, injectors where they go in the heads. blower and lim gaskets.

carb cleaner will make the idle jump up if you have a leak. brake cleaner will make it bog.

vac leak can make it run lean. once lean kr can happen for sure.

Welp, I think I figured out why my ltfts were out of whack. Yesterday, when I was on my way to get petrol, the cel started flashing and the car started running like crap. got the gas station, checked the codes, and had one one for a MAF, and one for low circuit on my #3 injector (p0203). looking at the cfm's that were registering in the freeze frame data, it looked like I was pulling over 3000 cfm. One Maf later.....I get to pull the injectors out. All I had time to do was a cursory check of the wiring, which all looks fine, and check resistance at the injector yesterday, which stabilized around 5 ohms. Before I take to replacing any Injectors, I still have yet to check voltage at the connector, (by the way, can anyone confirm that it should be 5v when it pulses?) also, what are the odds that *if* the signal is fine, that this could just be a matter of cleaning the injector, putting on some new seals, and calling it a day?