Thread: Window replacement without power

I've done the window and motor and actuator drill before, but it was easy since the window was halfway down. Now I'm trying to replace the windows with tinted from a junkyard, which will be dirt cheap , but the source car in question has no battery and no key, and even after disconnecting the clamps to the actuator, the window only moves down like half an inch, not enough to get it loose and pull it out. Any ideas?

I had success taking all the bolts out of motor, the guides AND the window off the actuator (most of this by braille and a 10mm speed wrench helps). THEN comes the fun part - laying waste to the upper guide tracks in the door. I'm not sure I ever did really understand how all the trim and guides on the door go on properly but they came off with a combo of fastener removal and brute junkyard force. Eventually I think the window can then be rotated 90* while still inside the door and out she will come. Some minor bleeding of the knuckles and forearms.

Thanks for the idea. I saw this last week but couldn't remember my login to reply on my phone. But this week I get to start working on the car again. I was trying to pry a window out of the junked car and after I started laying waste to the upper trim, which still wasn't coming out easily, I figured there had to be an easier way than trashing the entire door with blood sweat and tears.

Also Scotty thanks for the idea there. I actually have a Beatit box in my car that I use to jump start the battery when it's dead, and it has jumper cables included. Can I just use that battery to hit the motor with? So it won't fry the motor if I do it the wrong way? That sounds like the easiest way to go without minimal blood sweat and tears.

I don't know of such a rule, but they've never checked my toolbag before going in, only after, and it's only about 6x3x1 so it will fit nicely inside my toolbag without them knowing even what it is. The cables they may see afterwards and I can just say it's part of the emergency toolbag, a great place to keep cables. But yeah, I can get the power box in with no problem. I can't wait to get a set of professionally tinted windows for $80. The rear main window is a different story. I really don't want to even mess with it. Once that seal is broken all I can foresee is unending leakage. Thanks again.

Yeah I will likely just leave the rear alone. It looks like trouble and I don't want permanent leakage. The rolling windows I'm game. If I can hook up that battery to take em down. BTW where do I connect those leads? Is it somewhat obvious once I look at the motor?