Thread: The Dreaded P0102 MAF "Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input"

Well, I did my Due Diligence-read all the "P0102 Posts" and mine seems to fit the bill-stuttering, runs fine for a bit after clearing the code, runs fine "MAF unplugged", Already swaped 2 "Known good" MAF's from other cars-they Throw the code ONLY on this one, and No Codes on any of the other MAF's-including mine-on the other cars...And swapped out the PCM (Have the original as well as an "Intense" tuned mild PCM). So everything points to wiring/lowfrequency/voltage, But yet I can't catch it in the act displaying a bad ground/signal voltage/or ign. Voltage??? Sometimes I feel like just Driving the "F-Bomb" (01 F-150 that is!). Anyway, given the low amount of success others have posted, I will keep trying to track this down, and if it IS a wiring issue, get some definitive info/pictures of what and where the problem lies. And I've done the MAF cleaner ad Nauseum, greased all elec. connects, Exhaust Not clogged("testpiped") and all the other bits of wisdom posted in the last 8 or so years regarding P0102...TBC-I hope! I'm going to start with going over the fuse box and Alt/Batt. cables for corrosion/lack of grease, then isolate as much of the MAF harness as possible and check for varying continuity under flex, etc.
But if anyone has any New ideas or answers that I don't know, I'td be great to hear. And yes It has an oiled cone filter-I actually have a "spare" Unoiled K&N-Put that on just for a test with all 3 MAF's, and same result...
*Totally* not in the same realm,(But Maybe) -As a "True" kid of the 70's, I had a 63 Econoline Van (sofa in the Back and all!), and it would sometimes die after a right turn-Then start right up! Never figured that out-Moved on to an 80's Econoline-And soon had a very similar thing-only now it was frying the Duraspark reluctor pickup in the distributor with annoying regularity. Anyway, it finally turned out to be an ign. wire (12v) that ran inside a plastic channel just above the carb at the back edge of the hood opening from one side to the other. It was *EVER* So Slightly Lumpy, but when I opened up the insulation, There was NO Copper Wire!!! Just Light Green Dirt in it's place! Apparently the wire sagged a bit, held enough moisture, and magically that "Cu2O, CuO, or Cu2O3"-whichever it was, made an adequate connection 99.7% of the time! So maybe this is what I'm hunting for...Apologies for the lengthy rambling diatribe. Hope to post a "Good" answer soon! Regards, Mike

Thanks, Scottydoggs, I should have mentioned "THAT" as well-I'm going back to grease and scutinize the wires more closely in the DayLite, but I'm pretty sure I need to dig deeper I'm afraid. Thank though, for others that haven't read all the other posts, there's a good Schematic or 2 there as well. And if I get too aggravated, I'll fire up the Toro and mow the "Back 40"!
BTW, I have a 97 gt that even 'runs' 200+k miles, and a 2000 GTP, both sedans, both parts cars if anyone has needs that can't be sourced easily in your zip-feel free to pm me or whatever-like if you want some pics of anything-not looking for $, just want to help out if I can. (jersey shore-toms river 08755)

Yes my sons car the MAF plug would come loose every 6 months or plug ot back in problem went away

Ok, the only wierd thing I can find is that the GND. (blk/wht) has a 25 ohm resistance to ACTUAL chassis or battery ground. The Yellow (nominal 5v) reads 4.998v to 5.02v and the Pink (ign. Hot) to GND. reads 12.24v key on and 15v+ running...So, is there a reason why the MAF Harness ground to Chassis ACTUAL or BAT should be at 25 ohms? My 2000 parts gtp is still intact enough to test, and it's MAF GND. to chassis or BAT Ground is 1.2-1.6 ohms....The Schematic makes a cryptic reference to "Ground Distribution Schematics in Wiring Systems" Within the boundary of the underhood fuse block-(dotted line implying fuse box). So I'm just wondering-would any harm be done by connecting a direct chassis Ground to the the MAF Blk/Wht Ground wire? Or is an '01 supposed to have 25 ohms on that particular length of wire???
Is it Time for A Bold Experiment in Electricity(?!) What could *Possibly Go Wrong* if I Truly Ground the B/W MAF Wire? The Car could be Magically fixed(Wishful Thinking), OR, perhaps...Smoke, Sparks, sizzling components underhood and elsewhere!-Even Fire(!) and time for a new car? I'd love to get a solid opinion before doing what *seems* obvious. What bugs me is that the Ground(MAF) to ACTUAL Ground seems to be EXACTLY 25 ohms, and stays there no matter if Pwr. on/Pwr. off or Running. Any Guesses? Or anyone with an '01 that can prove/disprove the 25 ohm anomaly? Thanks to any and all that read this far, Regards, Mike

So can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't "Direct Ground" the 'Ground' i.e. Blk/Wht. wire to the MAF? The 25 ohms on the ground mentioned above makes no sense. And I can't find any Resistance causing item shown in any schematic that would legitamtely account for that. Thanks, Mike

Originally Posted by J57ltr

It makes a lot of sense you have a poor connection into a splice or where it's supposed to ground. I don't see an issue with grounding it directly, but just do it temporarily then find the root cause or you may have other issues related to that ground and whatever else may be tied into it.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, that was the logic in my thinking. If you look at the MAF, the thing has a BIG + and - (plus and minus) sign molded into it! So that made me think both should be at "true" BAT voltage, and why would anything be spliced into a "Labeled Ground" (in series) that would impart impedance? I Know GM does some DUMB S***, but that would take the cake!
Regards,Mike