Ahhh!! Its so confusing. Ok so the l36 block has those three bolts that hold that stand on correct?
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
|
|
01-27-2016
Ahhh!! Its so confusing. Ok so the l36 block has those three bolts that hold that stand on correct?
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
01-27-2016
No, I meant the head size. I need to know what tools to bring to the JY. I wanna say 13mm.Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs
01-27-2016
no idea how the l36 bracket bolts on.
you need the nut for that stud too. it holds the tensioner on. and the two bolts for the bracket
01-27-2016
i wanna say 10 mm.
01-27-2016
that bolt for the pulley on the stand maybe a 15 mm, or a t55 torx bit. the pulley needs to come off to get to the stands bolts.
01-27-2016
What's the best way in your opinion to get the bolt out without the pulley spinning? I don't think the belt is still on the car(s) I have in mind.
01-27-2016
Ok im sorry scotty i hope im not driving you insane but this is just really confusing for me. So if im understanding right the two bolt holes on the top of the coil bracket are where the studs slide in then the tensioner goes on the inside stud then gets bolted down. The bottom outside bolt hole is for another pulley that just gets bolted down and then from there i have no idea especially with the #9 pulley i. The picture
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
01-27-2016
This is all i have obviously ill need the pulleys themselves but what else am i missing?
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
01-27-2016
this is the best pi i have. i used to have two studs, now only one. and i used a bolt on the lower hole.
the tensioner needs a thin walled 13 mm deep socket. a 12 point socket seems to fit best.
the missing idler pulley you need the bolt for it too, it goes into the bracket on that bottom part thats sticking up.
you can see how the tensioner should look too.
pulley bolts all come off, they all bolt into something, pulley spins free all the time on a bearing. all bolts are normal threads too, not reverse threads.
01-27-2016
Hope you have the nut as well for that tensioner..it's a one off thin wall nut..this is the best pi i have. i used to have two studs, now only one. and i used a bolt on the lower hole.
the tensioner needs a thin walled 13 mm deep socket. a 12 point socket seems to fit best.
the missing idler pulley you need the bolt for it too, it goes into the bracket on that bottom part thats sticking up.
you can see how the tensioner should look too.
pulley bolts all come off, they all bolt into something, pulley spins free all the time on a bearing. all bolts are normal threads too, not reverse threads.
01-27-2016
yeah you'll have to get that nut from a junkyard if you dont have it
01-27-2016
Yeah well i dont have it but i figured tomorows my day off im just going to run around town looking for some l67 that arent totally destroyed and that way i can see it and grab what i need in person
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
01-27-2016
that stud comes out with a 4.5 or a 5.5 mm socket. iirc. tiny little hex on the end of the stud.
01-27-2016
I should have that in my tools
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
01-27-2016
So the last question i have is the pulley that is underneath the water pump and tensioner how does it bolt to the block cause its not on the coil brack or heads?
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
01-27-2016
same deal on the two head studs ones on the out side of both exhaust manifolds. little 4.5 socket to get em out.
01-27-2016
thats the one you need the stand for.
01-27-2016
Ya i know that i need the stand but that stand bolts to the l36 block? Or where?
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
01-27-2016
go back and re read your thread here, its been covered, pics even.
01-27-2016
You said the two bolts right under the water pump inlet correct?
Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
| « Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
| Bookmarks |
Bookmarks |
