Thread: Engine movement

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  1. #1 Engine movement 
    GTP Level Member Dee23's Avatar
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    I've made plenty of threads on this topic and so have others, but I haven't found a solution for engine movement yet. My GS has more power than my LS but at the slightest gas applied(or maybe a lil more) in reverse in the GS the more will move and make a knocking sound(LS doesn't do this, in fast usually doesn't make any sound at any speed in drive or reverse).


    All the mounts on the GS are new with no damage. In park doing a Torque break the motor barely moves(a good thing, thanks to the ZZP poly trans mount, GM engine mount, Intense poly dogbone round mounts and the radiator square poly support mounts). This knocking sound happens only in reverse while parking with a slight or should I say firm press of the gas.

    only in reverse guys, not forward/drive. Again while torque breaking it the motor is solid in reverse and drive. I know the tranny makes a lil noise while changing gears but this noise is much louder and only in reverse while backing up.

    only thing I can think of is while im backing up(slightly or firmly) the motor/tranny is naturally gonna want to move in the opposite direction possibly affecting one of the mounts(probably the damn tranny mount as always).


    just a lil weird because while torque breaking it(aggressively up to like 4k RPMs give or take) the motor and tranny was pretty solid with minimum movement. A lil lost of where this movement/knocking sound is coming from(only in reverse, gotta be from motor/tranny)
    Not your average grocery getter, but theres always at least two things on the list.... 10w-30 Castrol Titanium and Shell 91 premium mixed with a lil 100 octane racing gas......
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  2. #2 Re: Engine movement 
    GT Level Member TwiztdWun's Avatar
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    Do you have headers on this?
    Official GPF Red Neck
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  3. #3 Re: Engine movement 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    if your seeing the tach hit 4,000 rpm's torque braking it, your trans is shot to hell.

    if you got sd headers, thats the o2 hitting the fire wall. or the lca's are f ed up.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #4 Re: Engine movement 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Solution = stop going in reverse.

    I get a clunk or knock or something if I hit the pedal hard enough in reverse. I figure it's my headers hitting or everything shifting at once in the front end. I have new struts/mounts and new lca's and I just stopped caring.

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  5. #5 Re: Engine movement 
    GT Level Member TwiztdWun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    I figure it's my headers hitting or everything shifting at once in the front end. I have new struts/mounts and new lca's and I just stopped caring.
    As mentioned above. My 3 bolt flange on my collector has one of the ears at 12 o'clock. Every time I hit the gas in reverse, that flange hits the bottom of the floor tunnel.
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  6. #6 Re: Engine movement 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    if your seeing the tach hit 4,000 rpm's torque braking it, your trans is shot to hell.
    I was wondering why anyone would do this. RPMs should hardly rise in my experience.
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  7. #7 Re: Engine movement 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    sc cars should hit 2,000, n/a cars 2500. thats your stall speed of the converter, any higher, the trans is slipping. or you changed the converter to a higher stall speed.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  8. #8 Re: Engine movement 
    GTX Level Member SnowTh1ef's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    sc cars should hit 2,000, n/a cars 2500. thats your stall speed of the converter, any higher, the trans is slipping. or you changed the converter to a higher stall speed.
    Hm, didn't know the NA cars were higher. No wonder my topswap car seems like it can launch harder than a SC car haha.
    04 GTP -HAI, 1.9 rockers.
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  9. #9 Re: Engine movement 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Conveter is also small/lighter
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  10. #10 Re: Engine movement 
    GTP Level Member nik12937's Avatar
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    I think your best bet is to bring a buddy with you to a parking lot, open up the hood, and try to recreate it while he or she watches and listens to the engine bay.

    In the end if you can't find it, I'd just do your best to ignore it, it most likely isn't doing any damage.
    For thine is the Cam, The Piston, and The Rod, Forever and ever (or until they break). Amen.
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  11. #11 Re: Engine movement 
    GTX Level Member SnowTh1ef's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Conveter is also small/lighter

    Is that good or bad? Like will it end up being to small in a high power build?
    04 GTP -HAI, 1.9 rockers.
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  12. #12 Re: Engine movement 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnowTh1ef View Post
    Hm, didn't know the NA cars were higher. No wonder my topswap car seems like it can launch harder than a SC car haha.

    a bunch of us were all wondering the difference, so a few of us s/c and n/a guys did a test.

    maybe part of why a top swapped car is faster then a stock sc car.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  13. #13 Re: Engine movement 
    GTP Level Member Dee23's Avatar
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    I have TOG headers and I may have exaggerated on the torque brake RPMs. This clunk/engine noise in reverse doesn't make sense bc while torque breaking it theres no noise or clunking at all(in reverse or drive) and engine movement is very solid
    Not your average grocery getter, but theres always at least two things on the list.... 10w-30 Castrol Titanium and Shell 91 premium mixed with a lil 100 octane racing gas......
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  14. #14 Re: Engine movement 
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    Maybe I missed it but who's square mounts do you have? Zzps 2 piece of Intenses one piece?
    Squirrels are my engine. I need a Ford Regal
    04 Comp G.
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  15. #15 Re: Engine movement 
    GTP Level Member buickman104's Avatar
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    Did you ever get around to changing subframe bushings? If you haven't and they are in deed shot there might be slight cradle movement causing the thunk.
    2000 Bronze Metallic GTP
    Power :Gen V, 3.6 pulley, 3 inch down pipe, Power log, FWI,and DHP Power Tuner,
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  16. #16 Re: Engine movement 
    Never Be A Tim. ILoveAudi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    Solution = stop going in reverse.

    I get a clunk or knock or something if I hit the pedal hard enough in reverse. I figure it's my headers hitting or everything shifting at once in the front end. I have new struts/mounts and new lca's and I just stopped caring.
    Makes me glad to know other guys have this problem. I thought my problem was severe, but that sounds just like my issue. Only under heavy enough throttle in reverse do I get this weird noise.
    1998 GTP Coupe - DIY Intake, Stock - 178k miles with rusty weight reduction (sold)
    1998 GTP Sedan - CT turbo kit, billet wheel pt61, s1x blower cam, Iceman stage 3 heads, 90# springs for all the valve floatz, walbro pump, fuel pump rewire *slowest s1x build ever*
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  17. #17 Re: Engine movement 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILoveGM View Post
    Makes me glad to know other guys have this problem. I thought my problem was severe, but that sounds just like my issue. Only under heavy enough throttle in reverse do I get this weird noise.
    Same here. I was wondering if it was the ABS self test or something.
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