Thread: My 98 GTP with 330,000 miles finally lost the trans during our single digit temps

Throw some saw dust in there, it'll keep going.

This cold weather is wreaking havoc on my car too, car won't go into overdrive until it warms up and the battery died twice now.

You have a transmission cooler? if not, then 75k is too long in between changes. @175*F the changing interval is 100,000 miles, at 195*F (where these cars run without an external cooler, just the radiator cooler), the interval drops to 50k. If it ran hotter than a normal car (215*F) then the interval drops to 25k. I know this won't help you now, but it may help keep your new transmission in better shape, longer.

At 330K you'll want to expect brass bushings, clutches and steels, all seals, full valve body overhaul with all the updates/fixes, likely a bunch of the hard parts with needle bearings will need to be redone.

In this case, I'd likely nab a $200-$300 JY trans with around 100K and put new clutches in it. The toughest parts I have found in rebuilding this trans is w/o the specific seal tools, you spend a ton of time installing and trying to check them. There's one in the input/3rd housing that you simply can't see/feel etc. Valve body would be the next thing, again w/o the special tools you can't complete the job properly.

For the seals, I use ziploc freezer bags, cut down and lubed with trans fluid. That mitigates most of the sharp edges, you won't know for sure about a couple of the seals until you try the trans though. Hence why I'll help someone do clutches etc all day and explain that once seals are in the mix, I'm not interested. Takes too much time/effort and worry.
Based on pricing and value of service, I automatically have TEP do the valve body/channel plate. It's ready to be bolted on with all the soleniods etc.

Thanks for the info
I got it completely tore down today and cleaned up and found a lot of parts had gotten overheated a time or too. bushings were not wasted but very worn, 4th clutch assly clutch discs and cage they set in had bad scoring on outer edges, I'm still learning all the names for everything but the smallest in diameter clutch discs were the worst, clutch fiber missing and steels in between very burnt, bad torington bearings throughout, wasted plastic shims, rear planetary spider gears badly worn, 3rd clutch assly very wasted, rear sun gear drum badly worn, oil pump assly has a lot of scoring, 4th clutch drum and very worn splines, it has the two chain setup which are very stretched, it has the reverse reaction shell with the oval holes which look good but read somewhere the the round holes perform better, its looking to be a fun project to dive into (sounds kinda weird huh) its going to be fun to do. while im going to replace the torque converter should i go with a stall or stick withe stock and also should i go with the performance clutches