Thread: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature?

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  1. #1 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    I have no idea what the normal operating temperature should be on my Grand Prix. It seems to have been running a bit hot, so I replaced the coolant elbows with the new aluminum ones. The plastic ones I took out where shot to hell and broken. My temperature gauge when running around town seems to sit around one to two ticks above the halfway mark. It seems a bit high to me but maybe it isn't?

    - What is the temperature scale of the gauge? How many degrees does one line represent?
    - At what temperature do I need to be getting worried about how hot it's getting?


    I replaced the thermostat about 2 years ago but I can't remember with which I replaced it, I want to say a 190 or 195, which seems too hot for summer and these 100 degree days. So I'm going to go buy a 180 and install it.

    - What temperature do the fans kick on? Is there a high and a low fan speed? How can I go about changing the settings of the fan if I want them to kick on at a lower temperature?


    Thanks for your help.

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  2. #2 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Under normal temps, the middle of the gauge is 195ish.

    Seeing how its a tad warmer outside, those 2-3 ticks above likely fine, prolly around 205ish, which isnt abnormal for the summer heat. The car prefers that temp anyway, hence why they run the 195 from the factory.

    Fan temps are 214 and 228, so you shouldnt be tripping them on yet. The fans will run with the A/C on.

    A custom tune to the pcm would be the only way to adjust fan temps, so someone with a tuner that supports our cars could do it, but its not worth it.

    Only thing I'd be worried about is trans temps on the 04+ car, they always tend to run hot and burn up the fluid quicker.

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  3. #3 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    Three ticks above middle is right below the 3/4 mark where it's shaded red for getting too hot. It's OK to be that close to the mark?

    Also, I have no gauge for the trans temp, how do I check it?
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  4. #4 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Try bleeding the cooling system of air again. It might help bring it down a little.

    Seems like if its that close to the red, you are pushing 220ish temp wise, maybe more.

    I thought maybe the cars digital info center might have had trans temp in it, but that might be a 5 button DIC thing.

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  5. #5 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    I'll be buying a 180 thermostat today and a new rad cap and see if that does anything.

    My system is bled of air as far as I can tell. When I loosen the bolt on the thermostat housing only liquid comes out no air.
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  6. #6 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    why do people think a lower temp t stat will lower operating temp? why?

    all it does is open up sooner by 15 degrees, if the car wants to run at 220, its still gonna run at 220, wheather you got a 180, or 195 t stat installed.

    if you think its running to hot, flush the coolant, flush the radiator, replace the 195 t stat. dont bleed the t stat bleeder till the fans come on, that way you know the t stat is wide open. and leave the rad cap off while you wait for the fans to come on, this way you can top it off after you bleed it.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    why do people think a lower temp t stat will lower operating temp? why?

    all it does is open up sooner by 15 degrees, if the car wants to run at 220, its still gonna run at 220, wheather you got a 180, or 195 t stat installed.

    if you think its running to hot, flush the coolant, flush the radiator, replace the 195 t stat. dont bleed the t stat bleeder till the fans come on, that way you know the t stat is wide open. and leave the rad cap off while you wait for the fans to come on, this way you can top it off after you bleed it.
    because with it opening up sooner they think it will stay cooler. all it really means is that it opens up sooner. The car is designed to run at a certain temp anything below that and you burn more fuel because your computer thinks its still cold.
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  8. #8 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    Well, today I flushed the radiator with prestone super flush. I changed the thermostat. I've replaced the coolant elbows. I used a combustion leak detector to see if I had any combustion gases in my coolant, I don't. My car still runs too hot. I'm going crazy. I guess what's next is a new radiator?!

    My buddy has the exact same vehicle and it doesn't run nearly as hot. In fact, we've run our cars together several times for a long time and everything under my hood is much much hotter than things under his hood. Just everything in general gets hotter. It's driving me crazy.

    Any suggestions I'm not thinking about?
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  9. #9 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    when the car is hot, or good and warmed up, carefully grab the upper hose, it should be warm to hot as hell, now go touch the lower rad hose, it should be cooler. if the lower hose is cold, the rad is clogged up.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  10. #10 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    when the car is hot, or good and warmed up, carefully grab the upper hose, it should be warm to hot as hell, now go touch the lower rad hose, it should be cooler. if the lower hose is cold, the rad is clogged up.

    Both hoses hot, top one real hot.
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  11. #11 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    when you flushed it, how did you go a bout doing so? you let the engine pump the coolant out, or just pulled the hoses off?

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  12. #12 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    Hopefully you blead the engine with the bleeder valve atleast 6-10 times if not more, it takes more times than you think to get air out. Just because you may see coolant coming out doesnt mean there still is not air in there.

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  13. #13 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    when you flushed it, how did you go a bout doing so? you let the engine pump the coolant out, or just pulled the hoses off?

    I Followed the instructions i this vid, used the prestone super flush and everything.

    Prestone Flush & Fill How To - YouTube


    And I bled it twice from the screw at the top of the thermostat housing. What is the best way to bleed it? I just let the car run for a while, then i'll open the screw, and coolant shoots out.
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  14. #14 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    . This is just for the op to know with his gauge cluster about where his temp.is
    http://www.grandprixforums.net/my-06-gp-gxp-72403.html
    OBX headers, TEP tranny cooler, ls1 IM fuel rails and injectors, ls2 TB, ls7 MAF, full custom exhaust, Quad retro headlights, full out front and rear suspension work, tuned by HPT by me 8====>

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  15. #15 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    I wait till it reaches the middle of the gauge and open the bleeder for about 2 seconds, close it, then wait another 20 seconds and do it again. I'll do that for atleast 5-10 times to make sure all the air is gone. I also leave the rad cap on while doing this.

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  16. #16 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    Hey DirtDog thank you I've been looking for something like this. My car generally runs right where that needle currently is in the picture. The 230 mark, sometimes hits the 239, that's why I'm going through all this to try and keep it cool. My friends car, same exact year, runs at 212 and sometimes up to 221 but never over that, even on hot days.

    5FDP, I'll go bleed my system again doing it that way you said, thanks.
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  17. #17 Re: 2004 - Normal Operating Temperature? 
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    the way i like to flush the system is to take the lower rad hose off, drain it and the engine from that hose take the upper hose off the rad, now take the t stat housing off, remove the t stat, put the housing back on, use the old gasket or no gasket, wont matter as your gonna put the t stat back in later.

    take your hand cover the lower rad hose, now fill the rad with water, push the hose down let the rad drain via the hose as fast as it will come out, it should come out rather fast, fill and dump it a few times, then put the lower hose back in the engine, fill the rad with water from a hose, take the upper hose thats still off the upper rad, push it down to a bucket, turn the hose on and leave it on and in the rad so it stays full, start the car, the water will pump out the upper hose to the bucket, run the car till clear clean water comes out.

    go turn the hose off. then run the car till no more water comes out the upper hose. then turn the car off. put the t stat back in, the upper hose back on the rad. then dump one whole gallon of straight antifreeze not the 50/50 crap. then fill the rad the rest of the way with water, start the car, leave the rad cap off, let it idle till the fans come on, once the fans come on the t stat is surly open. then bleed it. if the rad level drops while your waiting for the car to get hot, add more water. top it off then cap it.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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