No,not really ^ OP set aside $500 and price some mods on various vendor sites which.is basically headers,tune, and pulley drop.plus some little extras.
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Starting with a stock GTP, I did home made intake, headers, Overkill tune, 1.7 yt roller rockers, and the car flies compared to what it was stock... the intake lets you hear the blower scream and opens up the airway, headers open up the exhaust so if you get more out quicker, you can get more in quicker and make more power... the tune opened up a little extra horsies, but mainly it made the car shift like a boss. When Im going and Im on it hard my shifts are so snappy and firm, it's awesome. The rockers really picked up the pull in the mid-rpm band, I noticed it the first run I did with them, the car pulls hard all the way to 6k now.
I think my total cost on mods so far is like $50 on the intake (It was a $30 filter and the rest was the tubing and clamps).. I paid about 250 for the exhaust work, 200 for the tune, and 200 for the rockers (used rockers, they're like 400 new for rollers). Eventually I'll be dropping a pulley size, but I have a gen v so I'll only be going 3.6. So add another like $110 for the zzp hub and pulley.
So say 800-900 bucks in the end over 2 years, and I've definitely shocked the hell out of some cocky people at red lights and make them feel stupid, lol. It's definitely worth it in the fun you'll have driving, and the mechanical skills you'll learn putting it all together. Dont sweat the 900 bucks if you're gunna get a lot out of fun and experience out of it, plus if you treat it as a multi-year project like I did, it wont even seem like that much money.
Ill help you out.
1: Make your own intake - Spectre Air filter from AutoZone and either a PVC pipe or put it right on the end of the TB. (Look at my Sig picture). -$50
4: Replace plug wires, OEM from an auto parts store will be the best bet. Replace fuel filter, clean MAF/TB, new o2, oil change. Just make sure basic maintenance is up to par. Don't let the miles on your car scare you away. - $100
3: Headers - Speedy Daddy, or look for used one's on forums to get the best deal. -$250
4: Get a scan gauge - Something to monitor KR with. Many people use the Aeroforce scan gauge, you also use a Scan Gauge II, or the cheapest route is to download an App called Torque, buy the OBDII adapter and you have yourself a scan gauge for less than $30~
5: Buy a 3.4/3.5 MPS and switch your plugs to either AL104's or AL605's - Need to replaced every 15k miles. -$100 (If bought brand new)
6: Have a tune lined up and ready to go. In-car tunes are the best, but if you cannot find anyone, get a canned tune from either ZZP, 3800performance, or Overkill Motorsports. Be cautious with the ZZP tune though, i've heard good and bad from it. -$150
7: Enjoy the power increase.
Total cost: $680~ depending on the deals you find.
Follow this as well:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/safel...0-a-67580.html
You think my car could even hold up? I just don't need it to blow up lol. I'm in high school. The last thing I need is a huge hole in my pocket.
the engine would hold up im sure, its the tranny id be worried about. if its in good shape still nice red fluid, and you dont drive it like a 16 your old kid beating the living piss out of it everyday. it should hold up.
i know thats how i drove when i got my lic. but i was driving cars from the 70's. i dropped more drive shafts then blown trannys or engines. i did run the trucks clutch to nothing, it had lots of miles, it was weak when i got it. and blew another clutch into pieces with the flywheel and the pressure plate in a rabbit. blew 2 engines up. i dropped a drive shaft in every car i owned as a kid lol thats beating on them.
i wish i had video of the roll back burn outs i used to in HS. side road next to the school, it was on a slight hill, in my 77 gmc truck, it had a 3 speed tranny, and full posi rear end, so id get it rolling backwards down the hill, then jam it in 1 st gear, floor it and dump the clutch, it would keep rolling backwards smoking the living **** out of the tires for a bout 30 feet till it stopped moving back, then roasted them back up the hill past the starting point. and left figure 8 burn outs on the street. (looked like a 8 ) with a 350, long tube headers, 2 foot long pipes and some kind of turbo mufflers. no tail pipes, open at the muffler, you want to talk about loud lol but sounded mean as hell wot at full rpm's.
a car today would blow to crap if you tried this.
Yes it would! But I drive smart. I never beat the piss out of it
Nitrous is unarguably the cheapest horsepower per dollar. If anyone says otherwise they are lying. I have a 175 shot on my G8 and for $600 it's as fast as guys adding several thousand dollar forced induction systems.
I'm around you but I'm running 1.9HS and a 3.5. Honestly my best investment was tuning. There's nothing like getting you maf curve tuned right and feeling an immediate difference in pull and smoothing out knock. Although some guys would probably think I'm crazy for running 12.5 afr with 20* timing advance. No knock and it pulls like a bat outta hell so I don't mind lol.
And I'm not a NOS fan no matter how much people talk about it. I prefer to not have to fill something up to make my car faster.
Nitrous isn't as cheap as some people make it seem.
I would never recommend speed daddy headers on a car you daily drive, especially if it's your only vehicle.
Where are you located at? Do you have E85 near you? Switching to E85 is very easy, and it will easily get you low 14 second times.
it assploded a day later. just kidding its still going
Well it might not matter. Realized my driver's side rear strut tower is getting bad. Like BAD.
No. I mean the legitimate tower. It's rusting on both sides. And now my tires' camber is all effed up
Step 1, realize what you drive. No offense, but it sounds like you drive it hard already. I'd suggest you start reading up on
http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-r...ion-35485.html
Step 2, Never ever ever use less than 91 octane in your car. If you do..likely you'll need to be up to speed on
http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-p...yle-47220.html
Step 3. Driving reasonably when you rely on your car and don't have money to fix it keeps you from walking and bumming rides.
Read until your eyes bleed, wait for them to heal and do it over and over. You can learn how to mod for little money if you pay attention, you can also learn what typically kills these motors, transmissions and the best parts to maintain your car. Totally up to you which write ups become the ones you need/want.
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