Trouble code

**Gerryk** · 01-18-2013

Hi all I had a 336 code crankshaft position sensor circuit range or performance problem.At first my car was idling up and down between 1300 and 800 rpm when I would stop at a light I hade to put it in park to keep it going and this morning it just died at a light and won't start now this all started going on yesterday afternoon . Any help would greatly be appreciated thank you

**Utter99** · 01-18-2013

Sounds like you need a new crankshaft sensors . About 27 bucks from napa . Go rent a harmonic balancer puller from oreileys and make sure you have 3 1/4 fine thread bolts about 3 1/2 in she's long and some washers for those .

I believe the harmonic balancer bolt is a 21 or 23 I can't remember

When you go to break that bolt loos use a pair of vise grips on the flywheel so it dos t move
Search around there's a couple how to's on this

Took me 30 minuts to do mine

**Gerryk** · 01-18-2013

Ok thank you I hope this is what it is

**Gerryk** · 01-22-2013

Well I changed my crankshaft position sensor and the car still wont start.After trying to start it for some time with no luck i pulled out two plugs on different coils they were both dry no gas on them at all and there was no spark ether.When I turn on the key I dont hear the fuel pump and I hear a his in the supercharger. Please help me out I am moving 2800 km's in seven weeks.

**Sven the Sexman** · 01-22-2013

Is this car a 3100 by chance?

**Gerryk** · 01-22-2013

No it is a 01 GTP 3800 supercharged

**Sven the Sexman** · 01-22-2013

Any visible damage to the crank/cam position sensor harness?

**Gerryk** · 01-22-2013

not that I can see but why would there be no spark

**Sven the Sexman** · 01-22-2013

Ok...here's how the system works...you've got a crank position sensor that relays info to the ignition control module that relays info to the PCM that relays info back to the ignition control module and then spark. You said you weren't hearing the fuel pump and not getting spark. Have you checked fuses?

**Gerryk** · 01-22-2013

No will have to do that but as I said at the start of this post first my idle started jumping from 1300 to 800 rpm then is just shut down while I was waiting to turn left at a light has not started since.

**Gerryk** · 01-29-2013

Ok I unplugged my maf sensor and nothing changed.I checked my ignition control module I have 12 volts going to it but the wire going to the crankshaft position sensor only has 1.4 volts coming out of the icm.I changed that with a used one and still only have 1.4 volts going to the cps.could it be that they are both fried or is there some other thing wrong.

**BillBoost37** · 01-30-2013

I would think they may both be fine. I never looked up the outgoing voltage. Sven Sexola suggested fuses. A fuse could blow when your crank sensor goes bad.

I'm going to suggest you give the fuses a try if you haven't already.

**Gerryk** · 01-30-2013

I checked the fuses they are goog I read that you should have 10 to 12 volts going to the crankshaft position sensor.

**BillBoost37** · 01-30-2013

Well then ... let's take a look at something else. No fuel, no spark, incorrect voltage to crank sensor..... something is clearly unhappy. In your reading about the voltage etc, is that a running voltage. Meaning if an interupter is in the way, does the voltage get pulled down... causing the low voltage you see?

Here's the fuel pump schematic for us to look at.

I don't see anything ICM related there. Which then makes me wonder, if your pcm is allowing the fuel pump. It grounds the relay and that powers the pump. You could try jumping it and seeing if you get fuel. Another thing is ... check the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (as long as it's a 97-03, you can do this). If you have fuel there, but nothing in the engine, then your pcm is not firing the injectors. This could be an injector fuse or pcm.

**Gerryk** · 01-30-2013

I got my info for testing the icm from this page easyautodiagnostics.com take a look at it and let me know if this is right or not.

**BillBoost37** · 01-30-2013

Can't get to the site from my "current location".

**Gerryk** · 01-30-2013

ok that sucks any how according to this site with the key on engine not cranking or running I should have 10 to 12 volts on N. This is the icm wire harness letters and where the wire goes.

A- WHITE wire.

ECM control of Ignition Control Module (after the 400 RPMs and above are achieved).
B- TAN with BLACK stripe wire.

5 Volt BYPASS from ECM for Ignition Timing Control.
C- LIGHT BLUE with BLACK stripe wire.

CRANK Position Signal to ECM.
D- PURPLE with WHITE stripe wire.

Fuel Injection Control Signal to ECM.
E- WHITE wire.

Instrument Panel Tachometer Signal.
F- BLACK wire.

CAM Signal from the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor.
G- YELLOW wire.

CRANK (18X CKP) Signal from Crankshaft Position Sensor Assembly.
H- LIGHT BLUE with WHITE wire.

SYNC (3X CKP) Signal from Crankshaft Position Sensor Assembly.
J- BROWN with WHITE stripe wire.

CAM Signal from Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor.
K- BLACK with WHITE stripe wire.

Engine Ground (-).
L- BLACK with RED stripe wire.

Ground that ECM gets thru' the Ignition Control Module.
M- RED with BLACK stripe wire.

CAM and CRANK Position Sensor Ground (-).
N- WHITE with BLACK stripe wire.

12 Volts to CAM and CRANK Position Sensors.
P- PINK wire.

Fused 12 Volts power for Ignition Control Module.

**BillBoost37** · 01-30-2013

Interesting...the GM book (diagram I posted) has it as only the cam. Try unplugging the cam sensor and see if the voltage increases. Then unplug the crank sensor and see if that changes anything.

**Gerryk** · 01-30-2013

`ok i will give that a try my big probe is I live in saskatchewan Canada and the average temp is -24c or -11f.I dont have a garage so my car is 20 minutes out of town at my brothers.