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http://pcmforless.com/images/dynoshe...rison TBSS.pdf
No mention of any modifications there.
http://www.tbssowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42467
Test Vehicle.
The Test vehicle is a 2006 TBSS that belongs to Brian (bnbpaintball). Major Modifications include a LS2 Portworks Intake and Throttle Body, TFS Heads, and a mild Cam 224/228. Injectors where 42lbs modded car injectors from Fuel Injector Connection.The test
The truck was first dyno tuned in speed density with all three intakes. This eliminated the MAF as a variable. If the MAF changes, fueling changes but also does spark advance. The truck remained in speed density for the entire test.
After the truck was tuned with all three intakes we went back and reinstalled each one. This time we made 3 pulls starting with the ECT at 84*C. To install each intake all over again seems like a waste of time but since we cannot control environmental conditions I wanted the entire test to be completed in the shortest amount of time. If we did one intake in the morning, then one in the afternoon just the change in temperature, humidity, and pressure could alter our results. The dyno uses a correction factor to level the playing field as weather changes, but we'd like to eliminate as many variables as possible.
The entire test (all 9 pulls) was completed right at 1 hour. The truck was not shut off between the 3 test pulls for each intake. We did allow the truck to have ~1 minute of idling time between each pull. This was to prevent the temperature running away.So nice of them to be thorough, then leave dead links for all of the proof.Air/Fuel Ratio
The target AFR for all pulls was 12.65:1. The PCM does a pretty good job at this varying anywhere between +/- .20. The way we tune AFR is the average of a couple pulls. If on one pull it goes to 12.80 and the next pull it goes to 12.50 we can't do anything but take the average of the two. They are consistent and reliable but not deadly consistent like some. Regardless the variance in AFR is not significant as far as making a difference in power, which is evident in the fact that the 3 pulls for each intake backed each other up within a 1.5 Hp even though the AFR did vary.
3 Pulls using the Traditional Intake with AFR
3 Pulls using the 4" Airbox Intake with AFR
3 Pulls using the 4" Fenderwell Intake with AFR
So, time for the results.
Traditional Intake 428.50 HP 419 Tq
4" Airbox Intake 436.19 HP 423.56 Tq +8 RWHP over traditional
4" Fenderwell Intake 443 HP 433.17 Tq + 15 RWHP over traditional
Last edited by matt5112; 04-19-2012 at 12:15 PM.
Hey, I updated my post.
Found more info on it.
Long story short is: Are you really going to care much about that last drop of power?
Its still going to have 160-170 WHP being attempted to put down to the front wheels via a weak transmission pulling 3500 lbs + you.
It'll just make a lot of noise when cold due to the IAC passage routing in the throttle body.
If you are, then by all means, ZZP intake would be great.
If not, any old intake will do.
Just use a quality filter that focuses on filtration, not flow. (ie paper, not oiled cotton.)
On the topic of power: look at percent gain. In the case you showed, they gained 3.7% WHP. (16 whp over the other intake as per http://pcmforless.com/images/dynoshe...son%20TBSS.pdf , not this 20)
For a stock GT, thats going from 160 to 166 WHP.
Which you'll be hard pressed to notice.
every one of those links suck!
post your real proof that a intake on a stock car will get you 20 whp. in so not on board with this one.
i say this because i have a diy intake and i say i've got nothing power wise out of it. rest of its all stock.
on a car that is modded up good, and your running a stock air box, sure you'd get 20 hp from not choking the engine.
I agree, I probably won't notice. But, if I do other supporting mods (mainly exhaust and tune), I don't want to have some Lowe's hot air intake setup leaving power on the table when it's already going to be a conservative tune. Like I said, I'm new to these cars. I don't know what they respond to.
I understand that there won't be a seat-in-the-pants difference with just a CAI. I'm just looking to make the decision once. Honestly, the vendor CAI's look like ribbed tubes or Wizaired's (or whatever) poor excuse for tubing. I don't like the looks of any of them, and SLP has the cheapest.
I'm curious to see real world results, comparison graphs, etc. Not debate about what my stock GT will see as a result to a $300 piece of **** from a vendor.
We're too broke/ignorant to do that though. (I.e. there is only one comparison, and its invalid due to lack of control of AFR)
No you're right.
We're not out redneck'ing things together and posting about our triumphs either.
It's only worth posting about if it includes cigarettes dangling and mullets.
/derail
It's $300 vs. $50.
And it's all about flow.
The bigger the piping the better, until what...four inches?
Who really cares though, for that kind of money I can make my own intake and buy headers from SSAC and go plenty faster and address something that matters, like the crappy factory GM exhaust system.
The **** is that mess, Josh?
Dear christ child.
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