Everything is fine on my end, did he recently come out with a new version?
Edit: Nope, same version. Everything is working fine here, both on the head unit and my old cell phone.
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Everything is fine on my end, did he recently come out with a new version?
Edit: Nope, same version. Everything is working fine here, both on the head unit and my old cell phone.
I don't think so, I've been seeing these numbers for awhile. Maybe I should try my brothers gtp and see if it's the same number before I assume I have a huge Leak. If I did I'm sure I would have noticed it by now
You can also try TouchScan to see if it is a Torque Pro problem. It accesses most of the same sensors that Torque does. It pulls codes 100% faster, too. I still use Torque Pro for the head unit though.
Touchscan? Hmmm first I've heard of it. Pretty good software?
It's okay, but I don't think it does knock retard yet. Other than that it seems to be pretty close to the same. Once I found out it didn't monitor KR I didn't look into it any further.I did e-mail the developer about the KR ability and he said he was working on it and it'd be in future versions. As of a few months ago, Torque Pro was the only one that did KR.
Thanks I'll check it out
Sooo went to pull the front out a bit so I can get my hood to lock, succeeded but noticed my subframe is cracked from the hit, now I'm kinda second guessing rebuilding this thing. There's no problems with it other then the accident, but I don't want to feel like I'm working on a lost cause.. Decisions, decisions.
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What's a subframe cost from the jy? Not including removing it of course lol.
Not sure, I asked a few friends but they don't know either, in the morning I'm gonna call and find out.. That's not so much what I'm worried about tho, I never pulled a engine/trans out before lol
I would assume I'd have to unhook the suspension, axles, wiring harness, exhaust, rad, motor/trans mount and anything else that's in the way and lift the engine out then put the car on jack stands and put some jacks under the sub frame and lower it and pull it out from under the car... But I'm sure there's wayyyyyy more bs involved
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Actually I think its less. You need an engine support bracket from above to hold the engine/trans in the car while the sub frame is out. After that its just nuts and bolts. Unbolt both motor mounts, power steering rack, lca's, sway bar links, a few other odds and ends and that's it really. The sub frame is light and can be held up.
Last edited by 02NavyBlue; 08-20-2014 at 06:30 PM.
Really? How long does this usually take?
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You could just hold the engine in the bay and drop the subframe I would imagine. Might not even have to take a lot off. Unless you need to pull the motor for other reasons
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Just edited my post, can't be too long. Maybe a few hours for the first time
Sniped lol
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Nah besides a bad supercharger coupler, she's "A1".
Well I might as well give it a shot then if it's that simple, I just hope the subframe isn't an arm and a leg. I need to set out a budget for this project.
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You might run into the new subframe not lining up if the frame isnt bent back all the way
Yea that's gonna be my main issue. My original plan I was gonna get the frame pulled first, replace the condenser, mounts, control arms that tore then find new parts for the front end, but now I'm not sure if they'd be able to pull it out with the sub like that .
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I picked up my aluminum subframe for ~$50 at the JY. You can use any aluminum subframe from a W-body AFTER 2001. Monte Carlos, Impalas, Grand Prixs, you get the point.
They'll get it out, cutting it if they have to. Wherever it gets installed would have to be a place capable of correcting the frame if need be
Think they'd have an issue?
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