Thread: What did you do to your Car today?

Painted the front valence black and cleared. Didn't get to the rear.

Cross braces with rustoleum metallic silver

Then dupliocolor blue metal cast for the win and engine cover painted and back on since my uim and motor is ugly

Did you use high temp paint on the cover or just regular rustoleum. Should have ripped the DPs off and done them

Sent from the Milky Way

Originally Posted by Russosaur

Did you use high temp paint on the cover or just regular rustoleum. Should have ripped the DPs off and done them

Sent from the Milky Way

I used krylon plastic paint. I didn't think it would be that big of a deal. And idk what I wanna do with the dog bones. So I left them. I didn't have time. I did all this while in between opening our pull digging and building our garden. And decorating the outside of the house rebuilding the pool pump setting up the solar heater and taking apart and cleaning the robot pool sweeper

Originally Posted by Booba5185

Torque Pro can monitor it and I have it set up through my head unit to show me.

Oh okay, wish I had that lol. Do you have an aftermarket trans cooler?

Also today I just ordered two kyb rear struts, two dorman trailing arms, and two rear sway bar bushings for $250 shipped on amazon.

Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue

Oh okay, wish I had that lol. Do you have an aftermarket trans cooler?

Not yet plan on adding one soon. Like within next pay

I've got a hayden 403 cooler..I'm really wondering what my temps are at on hot days like this, if it's good enough or not. It's a standalone cooler right now, I may throw on the next bigger size which I do have already. Shift times are directly related to pressure it seems, they got a little slower after driving a bit today.

Originally Posted by theaceofspades

Not yet plan on adding one soon. Like within next pay

Your trans temp is pretty dependent on the temp on the coolant inside the radiator. Pretty much what it boils down to

Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue

I've got a hayden 403 cooler..I'm really wondering what my temps are at on hot days like this, if it's good enough or not. It's a standalone cooler right now, I may throw on the next bigger size which I do have already. Shift times are directly related to pressure it seems, they got a little slower after driving a bit today.



Your trans temp is pretty dependent on the temp on the coolant inside the radiator. Pretty much what it boils down to

I'm getting a Hayden 1409 and my trans temp stays fine till I hit traffic and I sit. It hit like 201 degrees that's the highest I saw.

201 isn't bad, but in a perfect world I'd like to keep mine right around 160°. I need to find a way to monitor my trans temp though, I know if mine gets hot and shifts slow down, turning the A/C on turns on the fans, and pulls lots more air past the cooler and I notice the trans shifting a lot better. The first time it happened I was wondering why it was shifting so good for a hot day, then I remembered the fans turn on with the A/C (I rarely even use it)

Navy you got an Android phone?

Sent from the Milky Way

Nope. I was thinking of getting a trans gauge if I really wanted to see, but I really need to investigate the deeper issue, likely the boost valve.

I have an external cooler, and it's plenty big, it's of an Exploder. I'm ripping my hair out with this thing. I don't know what to do anymore.

What else is involved in the tcc hydraulic circuits? I know there's an apply and relief valve, a solenoid

I'm getting to the point where I'm going to stop throwing money at it and pick up a used transmission. Then I'll swap everything I've done to this one over to that one. I dunno, if it's something simple I might tear into it again, or something like that.

Well it has to be in the control circuit right? Could just replace the valve body or have yours inspected thoroughly. Either that or the torque converter itself.

If there was some way that I could verify the valve body would fix it, I'd probably go that route. Depending on the price. About 2 hours away from me is a 100K 4T65E-HD for $200.

You could always do that if you wanted, and go through your current one when you have time and look into the issue. If you don't find it you can scrap it, if you do then fix it and other things if you want, and keep it as a backup.

Well I'd put my new TCC PWM, PCS, and 4th shaft\stack in the new one. I just hate getting a transmission just on someone's word that it shifts good. Mine shift great...other than this TCC BS. I think I might try disconnecting the battery for awhile again.

I don't think that will help, that just resets the PCM when I think the entire time the problem happens, the PCM isn't commanding it to oscillate. It's most lilkely commanding lockup and that's it as far as the PCM is involved.

Unless it's an actual issue with the PCM where the part that creates the pulse width signal is defective.

I highly doubt it'll do anything, but I figure why not. I was thinking about it from the PCS point of view, the PCM learns PCS values to produce X pressure, then adjust the TCC PWM solenoid's % based off of that pressure. Both the TCC PWM and the PCS solenoids were replaced, so both values it assumes are wrong. Of course, the way I just "reset" them was disconnecting the battery and touching the POS and NEG cables together for 20 seconds, then letting it sit for a few hours. I had the battery disconnected for 3 days doing this project, and I had to disconnect the alternator's charge cable to lower the subframe (not the stock cable) so that wire was touching the alternator's case (ground) for 2 days, lol. The ONLY reason I think this might even do something is because the initial test drive went great, no problems at all...until it bucked a little bit because it was low on fluid. That took about 5 miles, I put 2 quarts in and it was back to full (after cycling through the gears).

Wife took the car out and came back saying it drives GREAT, but is it supposed to surge going up hill? "No babe, getting rid of that was the point of all this." I took it out and it oscillated, then buck on the way home. I checked the fluid and it was 2 quarts down again. Your thread said the job would use 10 quarts, and at that point I had only put 6 in, so I put 2 more in to bring it up to full again. I've driven it some more with only the oscillating problem, checking the fluid level after every drive and it's gone down a little, but it's still in the crosshatches. I made double sure to put the oil dam back in, and the little black dam thing down by the chains.

Didn't get to do anything to the Grand Prix, but I did finally finish up the work truck. I finished using rubbing compound on the passenger side, then went back over that with polishing compound. It still isn't perfect, but for a work truck it looks damn good. Once I was done with the polishing compound I washed it again to make sure I got all the residue off, then chamoised it off, then put a coat of wax on it.

All I need to figure out now is how to get the compound and wax that got onto some of the porous black plastic (like the door handles, grill, and plastic on the bumpers) back off. I tried scrubbing it when I was washing and it didn't help. Might have to hit it with a brush or something.

I didn't get a finished pic, but I'll see if I can tomorrow. I hope to get to my car within the next few weeks.