Thread: Rehabbing 2000 Regal GS, 250,000 miles

I'm helping my folks out and trying to rehab their car. It's in decent shape for it's age and miles, but does need attention.

I finally spent some time behind the wheel this weekend and these are the issues I've found.

1) This one moved to the top of the list as it started yesterday. P0303 code on highway under load (going up hill) Plugs are really old as are wires, over 100K on them I'd imagine so I'll replace those first and see if it fixes the issue. If not, any advice on how to proceed is appreciated as that back 3 plug replacement looks like a little nightmare.

2) Fluids. I'll change them all but I may need to hold off on the transmission pan as it has no drain bolt. I HATE that.

3) PCV Valve - Changed yesterday

4) Fuel filter - will be changed tomorrow

5) Does have an oil leak. Not sure from where but it's about a half a quart a month.

6) Trans does have a leak. Not sure from where.

8) Does leak coolant but a check of the oil doesn't show any coolant or indicate a head gasket leak. It doesn't overheat.

9) The AC will stop blowing cool air on the highway. I noticed that under load yesterday when I was getting the CEL and stuttering that the AC wasn't cold. As soon as I got off the highway and was driving in town, the AC would blow cold.

10) Drivers side, both windows are being held up by duct tape as what I assume are the window regulators are shot. Will need to replace those.

11) Need to change the super charger oil.

If thats all done and it's running well, then I'll tint the windows. lol

If any of you have any insight on how best to proceed with any or all of these issues, or if there is something I'm missing, your assistance is appreciated. Thank you.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Degrease everything with a quality cleaner to get all the oil and gunk off the engine and underside of the car. That is the fastest way to figure out oil leaks.

Oil pan gasket, valve covers and the front cover are very popular leaking points. Coolant could be the LIM gaskets or the coolant elbows. The LIM gaskets will show pooled up coolant in the valley holes by the fuel injectors next to the supercharger.


If the pan gasket on the transmission is not actually leaking and it's just the oil film making it look like a leak you can just suck the fluid out the dipstick tube and drop new fluid back in.

Spark plugs are easier if you don't have massive arms. Crawl on top of the engine or reach around the side past the alternator. Or just take the alternator off as it's only 3 bolts to give way more room to reach back there.

Thanks for your reply, thats some good feedback. I don't have massive arms but there're not long either so unless I need skinny AND long arms, I'll try it that way.

When you say "suck the fluid out of the dipstick", how are you accomplishing that?

Thanks for clarifying where leaks will be found depending on what they are, I'll be able to look more specifically now.

Right on, thanks!

Originally Posted by cheatah faheatah

Window regulators are easy & cheap off of Ebay (especially if you buy pairs). Pop off door panels and a plug, then only a handful of bolts. You-tube will show ya how. Just my $0.02.

I was surprised at how cheap they were compared to the foreign cars I've worked on in the past. Less than half! I have found some youtube videos and I live and die by youtube on car repairs. lol Thank you for your reply.

Originally Posted by buck531

I have a Drivers side front window regulator in the shed if you're interested. I think I sold the other 3 for $35 shipped. Send me a PM if interested.

I appreciate that offer but I already y purchased them online and they should arrive today.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

And while it's apart, clean TB...they usually need to be done.

I took the air filter housing out and noticed that mesh screen in front of the throttle body entrance. Does that come off? I didn't mess with it very long at the time, but I would like to see inside and clean in further if possible. Thank you.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Trans fluid is cake if you either pull it up or hit walmart in the storage area and get an 18x24 or so plastic tote about 4-6' high. I would automatically do a pan drop and swap out the filter. If the gasket appears to have metal inside it.. clean it and reuse it. Factory gasket is a lifetime gasket as long as it's not damaged, and it's tough to damage it.

Rear three plugs.. a knife can help get the wires off, as can a prybar etc. I have gone as far as using a hammer to break the plugs, but you risk part of the inside falling into a cylinder.

Personally.. when my dad got a car that had sat for 7 years w/o being started. I dropped a battery in and it ran. Then I did valve cover gaskets (make sure you do grommets too), intake gaskets, elbows, and then if it's still leaking do the oil pan gasket but rtv both sides of the new gasket.

ps.. likely the ac was turned off by pcm once it saw the misfire.

Good to know about the AC turning off when the CEL came on. I thought I had yet another thing to deal with and having no AC in the summer was gonna suck. lol

Is the trans gasket a rubber gasket or a fiber type? Thank you for your advice.

Is it that difficult to take the throttle body off? I'm seeing a lot of wires and metal lines all over the top. Don't want to get in over my head here. lol

Well, new plugs, wires, fuel filter and it’s running really smooth. However, as luck would have it, I think the ignition cylinder lock is broke. I turned it off after a test drive the other day and the key would t turn back all the way, but the key would come out. It’s as if the key was in it and I could start the car but the key wasn’t in it. So now the battery is dead. I found the part at Oreillys but the guy there tells me I have to take the keys to the dealer to get them programmed. Well, I called the closest dealer and he told me I don’t. It seems pretty straight forward to change the part out but I’m unsure about the programming and what not so I’m kinda stuck. Any advice on that is greatly appreciated.