Thread: Installing mount spacers for lowered cars (Important pointers and thoughts)

So today i took on the task of installing mount spacers for my lowered car. When you lower a grand prix, you will get vibration in the steering wheel when accelerating. First easy option is to get shorter dogbones (they can be found on a pontiac montana van) This option will get you by about 80 percent back to a smooth ride (until you give it enough gas, the vibration will still be there)

So here is what i learned from installing them.

First when you get them from ZZP, the holes arent big enough, so you need to drill them out to make them larger. (i used a drill press)

Drive your car up on ramps if you have them
remove dog bones (15mm wrench on both sides)
Start with trans mount first to get the hang of it

Here is what i did that you shouldnt do!!! Everyone says to jack up the car and its that simple. Well, i used a big piece of wood, and put it directly under the oil pan, i ended up denting the oil pan a little but no biggie
The trans mount has 15mm on top and bottom, i removed the mount and i decided i would mount the spacer on top. Well, when it came time to lower the engine back down, the studs of the mounts would not even come close to the stock holes in subframe. I was like . So i put jacks under car. lowered engine, saw that i bent the oil pan a little, saw some fluid dripping from engine mount (they are filled with hydro oil so dont worry)

Here is what you SHOULD do!!! Find a thick piece of lumber that is wide enough and tall enough to take on the task of lifting the engine and the trans case at the same time. Put the wood on the jack so it is lengthwise with car. This allows for an almost perfect angle to lower the engine back onto the mount. If it doesnt line up perfect, lower it just before it touches and then rock it back or forward and it should fall in. The Engine mount side is a little trickier. There is plastic shroud that is in the way that you can either remove or bend up if you have muscle like me. This gives a good view of the nuts on the bottom you need to loosen. The nuts on the top are tricky and require a short 15mm socket. Once you manage to get all those nuts and bolts out , repeat the steps you did for the trans mount.

This project wasnt too bad if i would have known how to properly lift the engine and that angle really matters.

I have removed shorter dog bones, installed stock ones, put the mount spacers in ON TOP of mounts.

My thoughts on how it performs now? Well, i noticed that the pedal is more racecar feel, it feels tighter and more responsive, Don't know why but car feels more throaty and you can just feel it in the pedal more. No shaking or vibrating whatsover. I would rate this a very good mod that everyone should do when lowered.

I put my spacers in literally one week ago and this is what I found.

Vinnies spacers fit PERFECT.

Do the Engine side FIRST, without unbolting the trans mount.

There is two brackets for whatever on the oil pan side, spanning the wood across those at an angle prevents any damage against the pan.

Jacking up the trans pan, moves the engine away from the firewall for some reason. Jack it up, and hold the mount in at an angle facing forward and SLOWLY lower the jack. The mount will drop right in.

Also, some 04+ people cant get to the top two engine mounts, you have to remove the 3 bolts holding the bracket to the engine and take the mount/bracket off and swap it.

A pry bar will make everything line up.

All you have to do is jack up the car on jack stands. Unbolt the bolts from mount your starting on(trans is easier). Jack up engine and trans using a 2.4 across both pans. Pull mount, replace with other, lower engine/trans. This has taken me no longer than 15-20 mins per side including jacking the car up and sipping on my beer. Dogbones do not need to be removed.

IDK why some have such a hard time. You don't jack up the motor to lift the trans. That's pretty straightforward thinking...the engine oil pan is at the opposite side.

A piece of 2x4 has always worked fine for me. Sure I put a slight bend in an oil pan once or twice.. that's when you remember that other things are hooked up. Seems like you made your drivetrain free floating by removing all the mounts..lol Of course it'll be tougher then.

And BTW.. not all lowering springs cause vibration. I've been on Vogtlands for 80K miles and haven't had any drivetrain vibration at all. I spaced my motor mount because I'm on an aluminum frame with the wrong engine mount (brand new)

UPDATE, I just installed the shorter dog bones as well. I think its the perfect setup. With only the spacers i would still feel vibration under part throttle , 2nd gear and on. Now its all gone

Keep the shiny polished dog bones and use offset mounts

I can vouch Vinnie Spacers>ZZP spacers

Originally Posted by buickman104

I can vouch Vinnie Spacers>ZZP spacers

So they fit better ?
realisticly anyone can "x" by "x" aluminum and drill holes in them

zzp plates I had to lightly clean up the holes for an easy fit

I can't say if they fit better than any other brand because I've not used any other, but I can attest that I had zero fitment issues with Vinnie's spacers. All edges, holes included, were properly chamfered etc.

I'm a machinist, and found it was worth buying a set of his vs doing my own measurements and cutting a set.