Thread: brake light is on...

check your brake fluid in the master cylinder. if its low the light goes on.

if the fluid is that low, you need new brakes too btw.

This ^^^

Or a line popped.

If a line popped wouldnt my brakes go out?


Just checked the flud... it looks a little low.. I will top it off and see if the light goes off.

If your fluid gets that low to set the light, likely you need to replace some brake pads and or rotors.

We can walk you through it... On the rear, you can use nearly any pads/rotors because they hardly do any of the braking. Most of it is done in the front.

I used raybestos rotors and wagner ceramic pads on my car when I did my brakes then used a tube and water bottle to bleed them by myself. No complaints with them, yay no brake dust.

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just threw Advance One pads from NAPA few days ago, pretty happy with them so far.

No need to bleed them if you're just swaPping the pads and rotors. Get a rear brake tool from harbor freight fit about $35 I'll make your life much easier

Originally Posted by andremike

thanks guys.. went to the dealer to have an oil change and the rear brakes are down to 2mm.. Time for new brakes

My dealer wanted over $400. of r just the rear brakes. Pads and rotors
A local place that I usually go to want $350.00 ofr pads and rotors..

I found Raybestos pads and rotors on Rockauto for $75.00 shipped.. I never did brakes before... not sure if I should try, but to save $300.00 seems worth it.


Any recomendations on pads and rotors?

pretty sure a brake job was one of my very first repairs every. brakes are so easy its not funny. once your done you'll drive by that shop flipping him the bird.

being you were kinda set on spending 300 or so, you could up grade your brakes to F body brakes for that much, or less if you shop smart.

only brake tool you will need is a rear bake caliper tool. the rears piston of the caliper need to be turned back in,

normally you can use a old brake pad and a c clamp to push the piston back in.

the bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket are long slider pins, re grease them with high heat brake grease. just the long smooth part, not the threads.

no chemicals are needed, buy maybe some brake cleaner if your doing new rotors as well.

1. Loosen lugs a little if you don't have cool tools
2. Jack and support car
3. Pull rear wheels
4. Loosen master cylinder cap (this allows the fluid to push bad easier)
5. Remove caliper and turn in piston

Does anyone know for sure if the piston turns or pushes in. Should I buy that square tool that allow mw to rotate the pin back

And yes I plan on replacing the rotors.. so what else do I need


What is tge s drag reduction clip? Do I need it?

any recomendation on pads? Here is what I see on rockauto..

WAGNER Part # PD698 ThermoQuiet Installation Hardware Included (Rebate/Promotion Available!)
Rear; Organic


RAYBESTOS Part # PGD698C {#PGD698} Professional Grade - Ceramic
Rear; Drag Reduction Clip Recommended H6002; OE Pad Material is Organic


ACDELCO Part # 17D698CH {#19286309} Professional Durastop|Ceramic| - Ceramic w/Hardware
Rear; Installation Hardware Included; Ceramic; OE Pad Material is Organic

RAYBESTOS Part # ATD698C {#PGD698QS} Advanced Technology - Ceramic w/Hardware
Rear; Drag Reduction Clip Recommended H6002; OE Pad Material is Organic

ACDELCO Part # 171592 {#18029844}
Rear

That square tool is junk get the proper tool