I was thinking of punching out the studs on the plate and drilling on the plate so you could have caster and camber adjustment by just removing the mount bolts and moving back or side to side and and put the bolts back in
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I was thinking of punching out the studs on the plate and drilling on the plate so you could have caster and camber adjustment by just removing the mount bolts and moving back or side to side and and put the bolts back in
with my thoughts you would slot the strut to knuckle upper hole and use the clamp plates to adjust for the camber you want and then weld the plates to the strut and that finishes off your knuckle side.
from there you can use a standard camber bolt for small adjustments.
the top would just be moved in far enough that with coilovers you can get an extra half to three quarters of an inch clearance to some fat rubber
the beauty of laying the strut back at a higher angle. . is the rate of positive camber gain from level control arms (lowered) compressing is slightly neggated
haha
i found my sn95 cc plates so i can finally cut em to weld em in the TRs oe upper plates.
looking at the stack height im probably going to end up with the strut rod close to .5" higher than oe. but that can be adjusted by the adaptor sleeves/collars
I was going to do this then take another plate, cut out the whole center, use that to hold the bolts. I got one plate cut out, then I just decided to reem the strut holes since it's easier to do. Somehow I gave it enough on each side and identical to where the guy just had to adjust for toe.
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