Thread: Size bolt stud for FRONT control arm to subframe?

Anyone know the actual head bolt diameter for the control arm that slides in between the subframe(rear), not to be mistaken with the torx type(front)? The holes on the subframe is elongated causing the passenger side wheel to wiggle in/out and messing up my alignment all over again when speeding and braking. To correct this, I was thinking about getting 2 grade 8 washers on the outside of the subframe holes and tak-weld it to the subframe(basically new holes) to prevent the head bolt/control arm from wiggling.

TIA

Damn, haven't seen that before...

So they are egg shaped from it being loose and violently smashing around in there I guess?

I would do a little more than tac weld but I don't see why that wouldn't last at least a little while provided the washer were thick enough. If you have the ability to weld though, you probably have the ability to cut and drill some thicker bigger pieces of metal which would hold up longer. Or maybe even weld the nut itself to one side and repair the other side with a washer/fab your own. As for your question why not just take it out real quick and caliper it? Instead of relying on interwebs peoples who will probably just guess and say 1/2"

Get a new subframe, our local pick n pull charges about $50 for subframes.

i was under the impression swapping subframe's a difficult task and this is my DD unfortunately. i could take out the bolt but then i'm concerned the alignment would be even more messed up. i was hoping if someone has the exact measurements and let me know theh i could get the proper thickness and hole size for the stud, remove it and weld the washers on the subframe then go for a re-alignment afterwards to save on tire treadware. thats my thought process anyhow lol

Swapping subframes is easy, support the engine and trans from above, a lot of people just use a 4x4 across the inside or the fenders and a chain, jack up and support vehicle, remove both front tires, remove the 2 engine mount bolts 15mm iirc remove the 2 tranny mount bolts i think they are the same as the engine mounts, unclip the wiring harness for the abs sensors unhook the power steering lines if your car has it unlpug the magnasteer connector from the steering rack remove the lower control arms if you are keeping them use a 2x4 and a floor jack to support the subframe, remove the 4 subframe bolts 18mm, and out she comes. If you want to keep your steering rack you will need to swap that over obviously. If you don't run into any issues it should only take about 2-3 hours to do the swap.

Swapping a subframe isn't hard but there's plenty of opportunity for things to go wrong if your not familiar with that type of work or even if you are. Should be able to jack it up take wheel off and weld some plates, washer, nuts or whatever on in like a half hour and have no problems from it again. Or even welding the nut alone in place should keep it from shifting and you wouldn't even have to take it loose or take the wheel off if your good, just don't weld too hot for too long or that bushing will probably catch fire lol

I would take the lower control arm off I was to go about welding it on, I think some plates would work better in the long run than washers or welding the nut on.

I just so happen to have a car(my old car from my sig) here at the house tore down that I was swapping flexplates on and have the bolts out. If you still need measurements or pictures let me know, I'll have it tore down for a while to say the least after what I found when I pulled trans. So let me know or PM me if you still need it...