Bad outer tie rod end? Video link included

**LoneGunman** · 09-20-2011

The play seen in the video is when the tire is pushed/pulled with my sons hands at 9 and 3, I read somewhere that play in movement in that position indicates a bad ball joint but you can clearly see the play in the outer tie rod end, there is no play in the ball joints or the inner tie rods. The car is a 2006 Grand Prix with eighty something thousand miles. I'm new to working on rack and pinion steering so double checking if I'm right. The other outer is just as bad. No play when the tire is pulled straight out or in. There's some play when the tire is rotated left or right until resistance is felt, you can see the amount at the end of the video, vehicle was in park, i'm assuming that play is normal or no?

Am I right, bad outer tie rod end, 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix - YouTube

**TLSheff** · 09-20-2011

9 - 3 usually is a Tie Rod, Inner or Outer is possible, just have to check em

12 - 6 is usually a Wheel Hub, or Ball Joint... tho Ball Joints don't really tend to be a big problem with these cars, a Wheel Hub tends to be the culprit

**dengnath** · 09-20-2011

I have a problem with my car..... i just tried to feel for the same thing.... if i yank on the tie rod there is a tiny bit of play. I hear a pop when backing up and turning.... then again while pulling away, and then a constant creak/squeeking while going down a bumpy road. Any ideas? How much does a tie rod replacement run at a good shop?

**LoneGunman** · 09-20-2011

Sounds more like a CV joint. Jack up one side of the car, grab the tire at 3 and 9 (I had it backwards) push the tire with one hand and pull with the other and wiggle the tire, if u have play, look under the car and visualize where the movement is.

**dengnath** · 09-20-2011

where is the CV joint at? I have heard of it but never actually looked at one before

**dengnath** · 09-20-2011

ok i read up a little on cv joints..... how much will one of those run at a mechanic?

**dengnath** · 09-20-2011

took it to the dealer.... they checked it for free (kinda). Said its definattly not a cv joint, but they can't tell what it is till it gets worse.... or they rip it apart. which will cost 100 bucks

**LoneGunman** · 09-21-2011

sounds like a BS response to me, now obviously what you think is a loud clunk I may think it to be nothing but for a dealer to say "we don't know, wait until it get's worse just seems screwed up to me. As an electrician I don't think my customer would be happy when their lights are dimming and I say what the dealer did because by that time the busbar in the electrical panel could be damaged to a point where a $85 fix turn into a $1200 panel change out. I have never and as long as im physically able to will allow anyone to work on my vehicles.

**dengnath** · 09-21-2011

The guy did me a favor and went for a ride for free.... that more than they usually offer. he said he can barely hear it so he can't give an honest opinion. He said for the 50-100 dollar fee he can tear it apart and diagnose it.... I'm happy he did that for free.

**JJ91284** · 09-25-2011

Your outer tie-rod needs to be replaced. You can easily see the slop in the out tierod on your video from 1-5 sec. This is diagnosed by grabbing the tire at 3 and 9 which your doing at time interval 24-27 sec in the video.

The rotation of the tire at interval 30 seconds and onward is completely normal, and nothing to be worried about.

**Scottydoggs** · 09-25-2011

go out and buy 2 new outer tie rod ends, crack the locking nut lose, but leave it on. then remove the cotter pin and the nut on the bottom of the tie rod connection to the knuckle, then with a hammer hit the flat part of the knuckle,( it may take severalhard shotsto pop) this will pop the tie rod out, then unscrew it, put new one on, screw it up to the old lock nut, tighten the locknut, grease it, (grease gun) then go get an alignment asap.

if one is dead the other is going to be bad soon or is bad already. so replace them both.

**JJ91284** · 09-25-2011

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

go out and buy 2 new outer tie rod ends, crack the locking nut lose, but leave it on. then remove the cotter pin and the nut on the bottom of the tie rod connection to the knuckle, then with a hammer hit the flat part of the knuckle,( it may take severalhard shotsto pop) this will pop the tie rod out, then unscrew it, put new one on, screw it up to the old lock nut, tighten the locknut, grease it, (grease gun) then go get an alignment asap.

if one is dead the other is going to be bad soon or is bad already. so replace them both.

It's better to use a tie-rod removal fork which can be had from any auto parts store as a loan a tool program.

http://www.greatnecksaw.com/images/p...arge/25201.jpg

**Scottydoggs** · 09-25-2011

those work well if your replacing what ever joint you are taking apart, but if you want to reuse the tie rods, dont use the fork, it only rips the boot up, and makes it dead. the hammer trick is best, and we all have a hammer.

most mechanics dont use the fork splitter, just a fyi. i own one and dont use it.

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