just thrrew a new engine into my baby that i just bought. car is mint in and out eveen under, but i guess i forgot to look in the trunk....XD
check out my strut towers here :
Pictures by guimond47 - Photobucket
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just thrrew a new engine into my baby that i just bought. car is mint in and out eveen under, but i guess i forgot to look in the trunk....XD
check out my strut towers here :
Pictures by guimond47 - Photobucket
at first i thought this was some sort of art exhibit..
Clean dry and seal with undercoat, unless I missed something I don't see any large clumps of rot just rusty draining water.
YEEEEEEEP mine is even worse. this is a problem that is becomming worse over the years, mine actually started falling thru and is now beyond repair unless i weld a new quarter of a donor GP in. i had my mechanic weld a steal plate to the inside top of the shock tower as a temporary fix. i now have to part out the car next year i will be gettin anoter GP to build over winter but this SUCKS, i feel your pain
Tap the metal with a hammer to see if its sound, if so remove the rust and undercoat. on a side note the thumb nail pics made me trip balls for a second.
just got her fixed up tonight ill post up pictures when im done both sides. i think my fix will hold up, next step is to put por15 on all of it to stop the rust permanetly. i love how someone posted up my sub box plans:P
use eastwoods encapsulator and rust coverter. better than por15
Eastwood Rust Converter - Convert Rust in One Step
Rust Encapsulator - Paint Over Rust - Stop Rust and Corrosion
severe rust use converter then encap. if not insane, wire bush off loose rust and put encap over it. Converter only works when applied on RUST only.
Last edited by brandonl2000; 08-09-2011 at 12:40 PM.
the encap is the only one that takes a bit to dry, say 1.5hrs.
the eastwood forum is here, good ****.
Rust Prevention & Repair
the reviews on the rust converter stuff says like 48-72 hours...
1.5 hours is nothing though.
There site says 20 oh well. Id only use the encap, plenty have people have done it that way with no worries.
just personal preference is all. Maybe a little laziness to
Put converter on the severe rusted parts, top with encap your golden
sounds like a killer idea man. is it really proven that its better then por 15 tho?
Well according to por15, you dont just paint it on, you also have to prep it with another product so here goes. Im not going crazy on research on where its the cheapest, I am taking it directly from both main sites.
Por15 Prep and Ready - $17.50qt
Por15 Paint - $47.50qt @96sq ft coverage 1 coat (needs to be top coated if exposed to sunlight)
Total WITHOUT top coat if needed $65+ship
Eastwood Rust Converter - $29.99qt
Eastwood Encapsulator - $34.99qt 50sq ft with 2 coats 100sqft with 1 coat ( does not need to be top coated)
Total $64.98+ship
Is it proven better than por15, dont know they are probably the same. But from research ALOT of guys say eastwoods goes on easier, and is better to work with.
ill probably go with an aerosol thing of the eastwoods and call it that on that. i dont have much rust at all, just some complaints on the pinch welds. i doubt it would get much worse seein as it's the south, but why not go ahead and put a wrap on it.
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