Thread: Swaybar Sizes

thats all fine. guys swap the AL frame to the 97-03 cars. sway bar bolts in the same location.

Originally Posted by RonaldVPopowich

How about frame material? The 2005 l am working on is made with aluminum structure where the stabilizer bar and control arms mount. Would be a disaster if the heavy bar bent that structure. Are the non- 2004-5 vehicles made with aluminum?

I have an aluminum subframe with that same Dorman bar. If you get the 97-03 LCAs and endlinks, you'll be golden!

they sell 3 sizes. iirc its the middle one. test fit the bar with the new bushing at the store. its a standard bushing, and a metric bar.

TIGHT for all of the above.

if your not a bolt breaking fool, you know where tight is. turn the bolt in till it stops, snug it, then maybe 1/4 turn more. once its tight you'll know it. any more and the bolt will break.

Parts installed, inspection performed, and test drive completed:

Parts:
Dorman 927-100 Stabilizer Shaft Kit;
Moog K80815 Bushing Kit, bushings supplied by Dorman are rather soft;
ACDelco Control Arms: Left: 45D3385, Right: 45D3389, note that they DO NOT come with bolted on ball joints as currently depicted in ACDelco's online catalogue;
ACDelco Bearing Hubs: FW293.

Torque specs from manual, important due to use of Aluminum - excessive torque will deform Aluminum and lead to fastener loosening.
Thoroughly CLEAN ALL MATING surfaces of residue to ensure torque is not wasted on material that will loosen under vibration.
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle: 15 lbft + 120Degrees. Be cautious separating as to not damage sealing surface, use proper lever separation tool and may require slight impact on body of Steering Knuckle with small hammer. Clean Ball Joint Boot sealing surface. Align hole in ball joint stud parallel to front-back prior to insertion into Steering Knuckle to aid cotter pin insertion, DO NOT loosen castellated nut to align.
Control Arm to Frame: 92 lbft.
Strut Upper Mount to Body: 24 lbft. Loosened and two inboard of three removed to allow Strut Assembly to be moved about to aid in Stabilizer Shaft and Control Arm removal and placement. Check the one nut occasionally so that it remains fully threaded, the top of the bolt is at the top of the nut, so that the Strut Assembly does not fall out!
Wheel Bearing to Steering Knuckle: 96 lbft. Apply thread lock. DO NOT pinch Drive Shaft CV Joint Boot!!! Requires turning the steering wheel lock to lock to gain access with torque wrench. Use of a universal joint socket recommeded.
Drive Shaft Nut: 118 lbft. Ensure to clean shaft splines, scrape with a cold chisel works well, and lightly apply anti-seize. Previous work did not fully seat shoulder of shaft to bearing hub allowing water ingress and much corrosion - required propane torch and 3 lb hammer with pointed punch to separate; thus bearing hubs compromised.
Front Brake Caliper to Steering Knuckle: 133 lbft. Apply thread lock. Requires turning the steering wheel lock to lock to gain access with torque wrench.
Stabilzer Shaft to Control Arm Link: 44 lbft, just as the nut reaches end of threads.
Stabilizer Shaft Bracket to Frame: 22 lbft.

Inspection:
Good clearances with weight on wheels: Stabilizer Shaft ends to Tie Rod and Drive Shaft, Stabilizer Shaft midpoint to exhaust.
Good position with weight on wheels: Stabilizer Shaft is approximately horizontal and centred within bushings.
All appears as attached diagram.

Test Drive:
Solid feel with no clunks or other untoward sounds or vibration.
Body roll greatly reduced. Perhaps will be reduced further with installation of better Stabilizer Shaft Links.
Considering old tires and requirement for alignment, easily exceed tire traction under hard cornering. Have to see how alignment and new rubber performs.

So far, a success ...

Update:
Added better stabilizer shaft links, Moog K5342 - tighten nuts to end of threads, alignment, and new rubber.
A few months of driving.

Pleased to report that cornering performance is greatly improved, very flat.

Just need to throw it out there, the first post should be edited for the Dorman sway bar, it's actually a 33mm bar, at least where the bushing mounts.

No.

Yep

Just measured my front sway bar, it is .811 in. and it is solid. I was going to install these for the bushings and these into my stock LCAs. I have to stay with my small sway bar unless I install 97-03 LCAs? Is there anything I can do for the back?

EDIT: It seems the 04 did come with front sway bars around 21mm for some reason. Is there any way to put a larger sway bar in with out replacing the LCAs with 97-04s?

You can look for 2002-2005 Chevy Impalas with the 9C1 RPO code "Police Package"