and no one makes a 2-piece 12" rotor from I know of. Smallest I've seen is 12.6" and they were custom jobs.
I still wonder if you could use the z06 rotors too, the size is not too far of, just a little shaving if neccessary
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and no one makes a 2-piece 12" rotor from I know of. Smallest I've seen is 12.6" and they were custom jobs.
I still wonder if you could use the z06 rotors too, the size is not too far of, just a little shaving if neccessary
I noticed that you mentioned that the V8 F-body calipers you could use. You don't have to have the caliper from just the V8; you can use the V6 calipers as well. That's what I have always known it as. Correct me if I'm wrong or if I read it wrong.
Other than that nice right up.
98+ F body calipers are all the same on the front.
check the part numbers.
98+ front calipers are the same.
i believe you...i just though the sixers has single piston and the ls1 cars had 2 piston....but if you say they're the same i beleive you.
Its just easier to search them on ebay as the SS model calipers, hence why I said V8, cause people do that.
Baer Disc Brake Systems 2301006 - Baer Brakes EradiSpeed-Plus Brake Rotors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Boom magic.
Dave.
As a result of being a doubter you must buy them for me
nice thread
great write up except a couple things.
cross drilled and slotted rotors do alot for heat dissipation and also help keep rotors from warping, and rotors are not "molded" majority of rotors are made from cast iron. cross drilling and slotting are done by a machining process after the rotors are cast. not "molded in".
in this video it shows how 99.999999% of rotors are crss drilled and or slotted.
YouTube - How It's Made - Password JDM Performance Brake Rotors
The issue is..........
Who made the rotors?
Are they split cast?
If you need drilled rotors then you also should consider going with larger two piece rotors and some stiffer calipers.
Curved veins is something you'd want to look into if you're concerned about heat.
Slots are for venting gasses that dont exist in modern street pads for the most part.
Last edited by matt5112; 01-29-2011 at 04:54 PM.
That Video is a perfect demonstration of how NOT to drill rotors. I know people with rotors like that and they are only using them for daily street duty and they have cracked. This is an example of what I mean: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=742453
I say Molding, but really mean casting, everyone seems to understand what I mean.
Its been an argument for some time between alot of people, but in a daily driving application, drilled and slotted is absolutely useless. Once you admit its for purely aesthetics then there is nothing wrong with it, but to say its an upgrade on a daily driver, then I have to disagree
Last edited by MrPoopyButthole; 01-29-2011 at 06:13 PM.
Another example of what happens with rotors that slotted after casting, Notice the crack starts where the slot is:
*edit* lets make sure we all know i'm not trying to start an arguement. i just want to make sure we are all getting the correct info. including myself. if i am wrong then at least i learned something.
drunkie, your going to have to show me where you get your info.
Power Stop Brake Rotors - Cross-Drilled, Slotted and Cross-Drilled & Slotted Rotors
my info comes from years of use of drilled and non drilled rotors on daily driven cars, daily ridden bikes and race bikes. even ****ty ass slow, heavy, non performance oriented harley davidsons have cross drilled rotors.
Last edited by f3racer; 01-29-2011 at 07:04 PM. Reason: no fighting
They help sure.
But providing proper brake venting would make more of a difference than drilled rotors.
At least on a car.
I know nothing about bike brakes, but I do know they are a solid piece and not vented and its a different setup when it comes to that. This is not about bike brakes, thats a different aspect.
The website you posted is of course going to promote every which way they can to convince you thats what you need, they are trying to sell a product. Thats like doing your research for parts through ZZP, they are gonna tell you everything you want to hear even though you really don't need the part.
This link, goes into about how some guy found some research, but couldn't back it up with any real documents, at which point a bunch of members prove why Drilled rotors are worthless.
Drilled Rotors vs. Slotted Rotors.... Engineer test.. - Corvette Forum
And a very definitive thread that dives into the true physics of it:
Cross drilled rotor myths dissolved - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum
Using these rotors for daily use is not really a problem, just admit that its strictly for aesthetic reasons only and there is no issue. Like I said this has been a long debated battle, they will do nothing for you on a street car running a single piston sliding caliper and 11. rotors.
Another good source of info would be over on the Grassroots motorsports website, those guys have all been around long enough to know what works and what doesn't work.
i agree with you on that but it also mentions drilling your own rotors.
corvette forum very 1st post
"For the sports sedan, the coefficient of friction was 21% higher for drilled rotors than standard front rotors at 340F and higher using 15 brake snubs at 62mph. The track simulated 124 mph fade test showed 37% better brake output for drilled rotors. The drilled rotor brake temperature was about 150 degrees cooler.
For the performance car, the coefficient of friction was significantly higher for drilled rotors especially at high temperature.
Wet braking at high pedal pressure was the same for drilled or standard rotors. Wet braking is not significantly improved by drilled rotors.
Pedal force was much more consistent with drilled rotors over the brake temperature range. That is, to stop at the same deceleration rate, the driver does not need to modulate pedal pressure based on different brake temperatures. This reduces driver fatigue and improves brake response.
The authors also reported that drilled rotors prevent pad resin glazing on the rotor. So we now have solid evidence that drilled rotors have benefits over standard rotors. However, I have not found any published paper to show how slots affect brake output. So I reviewed inertial dynamometer tests using ISO NWI 26867 from Link Testing in Detroit with slotted rotors vs standard rotors. The results showed no significant difference in the coefficient of friction during the fade sections, hot stop section or pedal sensitivity portion of the test. My hypothesis is that slotted rotors do not contribute to rotor cooling whereas drilled rotors improve convection heat transfer to cool rotors and reduce brake fade. I should also point out that the pad lining wear for the slotted rotor was very severe during the test, i.e. the pad was chewed up over 20% more than the lining with stock rotors. While I believe that slots will help remove gas and debri from under the pad, I am not sure that this has a significant effect on brake torque for normal street driving. Perhaps the effect of slotted rotors is more significant on the race track, and conversely, I believe that drilled rotors are better for street and highway driving."
And like I said, the guy never could back it up with documents, everyone on that forum immediately debunked him.
Read the second link in its entirety, that information from the corvette forum was COMPLETELY WRONG in the first post.
And I would never drill my own rotors, High end cars have rotors that have the drilling strategically placed in the rotor to make them structurally sound, not to mention they use a completely different material for their rotors compared to ours. Steel does not equal Carbon Ceramic.
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