It would be easier to just replace the control ("A") arm. As for "can you do it?". Sure - it's just a few bolts, and it should only take you about an hour each side.
Oh...and this might help.
Set the e-brake, and jack up the car. I'd do both that the same time - so set a couple jack stands in place. Just be sure to allow the control arms to hang.
Remove the wheels/tires
Remove the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the control arm
Disconnect the ABS sensor - make sure it's out of harm's way.
When removing the control arm from the spindle, note the direction of the bent ends of the cotter pin in the castle nut. You don't want the bent ends of the cotter pin facing the half shaft or the ABS sensor
Remove the cotter pin and loosen,
but do not remove the nut from the ball joint stud - this is fairly important...read on and I'll tell you why.
Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle -
do not use a hammer to try and beat the stud down through the spindle. This probably sounds like common sense - but I've seen it done. No bueno. I have a 5' long piece of 1 1/4" round steel that I put in the hole you'll see on the left side of the control arm towards the back, and I use it for leverage to push the arm down enough to separate, but not completely thanks to the nut you left on; the arm from the spindle.
Remove the castle nut
Remove the 2 control arm mounting bolts and remove the control arm from the frame.
Take this time to clean up anything that you feel needs it - it would also be a good time to replace the half shafts if you think they need it.
Reassemble in the reverse order.
Torque specs:
Castle nut @ ball joint - 40 ft lb (Don't forget, you have to put the cotter pin back in - so you have to keep that in mind when torquing it down)
Stabilizer bar bolts - 17 ft lb
Control arm bolts - 83 ft lb
HTH - Swash