Thread: rear brake line question

id just replace whats busted with some new line and compression fittings.

if the line blew out in the rear sub frame. mine did. so i cut the line in the d/s rear wheel well, and cut the line on the pass side 6 inches form the union to the rubber line to caliper, then ran a new nicop line across the back of the gas tank and to each cut off end. been that way for like 5 years now easy.

ive since replaced all the lines to the back of the car, fuel lines too. but left that rigged line in place.

its right behind the back of the gas tank, not even tied in to nothing, just hangs out back there like it was meant to be. i have pics but they are on photobucket and that site is being horrid right now.

got to em.....

pass side off the union cut wrapped around the back of the tank https://oi1097.photobucket.com/album...pse6381c02.jpg

and driver side in a open area so you can work on it easy. https://oi1097.photobucket.com/album...ps1eaa1b09.jpg

3/16

no flaring for compression fittings, just need a clean cut. if the old line is rusty where you want to cut it, sand it with 100 grit paper first, then cut it. easier to sand as a solid line and no crap can get inside the line.

you can use a hack saw or i like using a small ass pipe cutter. makes a real clean cut.

and for some reason, im thinking the line is 5/16 ths. i could be wrong tho. last thing i patched up was fuel rail and might be mixing em up.

parts stores got line for sale in lengths up to 5 foot long, come with flared ends and union nuts already. you cut them off. get the 5 foot long nicopp line and you will have a foot or so left over. line costs about 20, compression fittings like 3-4 bucks for a pack of two fittings.

buying this stuff at my auto zone, i tell them what i need, they say what car? i say its at the end of the isle right here, i know what i need lol then they walk me back there and i grab what i need.

then if you dont have a helper or a power bleeder, you can make a one man bleeder from some clear thin tubing that fits the bleeder on the caliper snug, then put the other side of the hose in a bottle put a inch or so of brake fluid in the bottle make sure the hose is under the fluid line, fill the master up, then slowly push the brake pedal down let it back up slowly, you can also just do short pumps if you like. till you see solid fluid in the tubing to the bottle, theres how to's for the one man bleeder on youtube. love that little trick. as i work alone alot. keep a eye on the master, you dont want it to run dry.

now if it already ran dry, you need to bleed the master before bleeding anything else. to bleed the master on the car, i crack the two line nuts free and snug em back up. have a helper pump the brakes and hold them like you would a caliper, then you crack the line nut open, you'll hear air spit out, repeat till its just fluid coming out. do both lines. wrap a rag around the wrench and nut to keep the mess at bay.

Brother, I no one in their right mind is gonna suggest you disable your rear brakes in a car you drive. Just get 'er fixed and be safe.

M10x1

to use another nut on the line, you'll need a double flair tool to re flair the line after you cut the end off and slide the new one on there.

From calipers to the engine bay. I don't know exactly what you mean, sorry. I just replaced them from where they hook on the distribution module under the hood to the calipers. All the hard lines.

If you bought pre-bent lines for a Pontiac Grand Prix and the fittings are wrong, you need to send that kit back man.


I did this job on my maroon Grand Prix, and bought the lines from Classic Tube. Has zero issues. Make sure you keep all the rubber hoses that go to the calipers, or buy new ones. The kit doesn't come with those.




Luke's GTP


Luke's GTP