|
|
05-13-2019
Hi All,
I need to replace two wheel bearings. The front driver side and rear passenger side. Im looking at rock auto and considering the Centric ones. Anyone have a preferred brand?
2004 BUICK REGAL 3.8L V6 Supercharged Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly | RockAuto
05-13-2019
I've been using Delco's, as they have a 5 year warranty here in Canadaia-Stan.
05-13-2019
I've always run the Timken brand on my FWD GM stuff. I drive a lot and haven't had any strange issues with them. Not sure on the warranty as I just change em out and move on. Just my .02.
Cerberus liked this post
05-16-2019
I had a 98 Riviera (same drivetrain basically) and went through a few cheap wheel bearings from autoparts international but they kept going bad.
then i bought Timken bearings and never had another problem.
mrbreezeet1 liked this post
05-16-2019
...Although.. I have renewed respect for Delco parts lately.. They make a metal impeller water pump for another car I had where the OEN was a plastic impeller in a nightmare 20hrs water pump job..
plastic my ass, i went with the cast iron impeller..
You'll probably be fine with either.
06-20-2019
I only go with Timkin or SKF
06-21-2019
ive had timeken delco and many other cheap brands all have let me down except for those 2
07-25-2019
I replaced the front pass side bearing on my '99 Grand Prix 5 years ago (i.e. 15 year old OEM) with a Mood bearing. It is shot in 5 years. I'm going with one of the recommended brands above.
08-21-2019
I replaced both of my fronts with Moogs also 4 years ago and have one going bad. Figures they only have a 3 yr warranty
I'll also be looking at other brands.
08-21-2019
firstdue: I replaced my Moog with Timken and the car passed MA inspection with flying colors. I would recommend Timken instead of the Moogs. Perhaps Moog has had a bad batch or quality issues; 4-5 years is waaay too short for a bearing life.
08-21-2019
If you ask me the W body bearings are under-engineered. All brands can go back in short time or survive for a very long time. Some people will say it's because of the varying torque specs, but I'd disagree there too as I've always gunned the axle nut on while others who had quicker bearing failures torqued perfectly etc.
Look for a bearing with a good warranty, plan to replace them and they'll likely last longer than you think
Bronco Boy liked this post
08-21-2019
For $102 rock auto has ACDelco with a lifetime warranty. $24 more than the Timken with just a 12 month warranty.
Anyone have experience with Mevotech? I see they also have a lifetime warranty and only around $94
09-17-2019
I just replaced all my wheel hubs on my 2007 GP GXP, I believe they were all original, front 2 fell apart as i removed them. I installed Moog for all 4. 2 had to be replaced already and I think other 1 if not both are bad as well. they are from Autozone and only other brands I can get from them are duralast. It is definitely better than it was before i did them all of them. I dont think i want to remove again for a while. Had to cut out the E-Brake as they where completely rusted together, didn't use anyways. When i do get around to doing again what other brands should I use? I noticed Moog is made in China now so im guessing quality is crap now.Is timken still good? Used to use them when AZ used to sell all where made in USA years ago.
Thanks for any answers.
09-17-2019
Not sure how the Timken are for the GXP's but I'd imagine they're still good. I run those on my 00 GT and haven't had any strange failures.
09-17-2019
Thank s im thinking maybe them on the AC Delco ones from Rockauto next time, I cant puit anymore money into hubs right now since I bought these from AZ and they dont sell timken or AC Delco hubs
11-16-2019
Getting better at installing these. 90 minutes from start to finish.
I had read that you can determine which side is bad by listening to the sound when turning left or right. If it diminished when turning right it was likely to be the left bearing.
That didn't hold true in my case.
Just ordered a new one for the passenger side too. At least i shouldn't be doing these again for a few years.
11-19-2019
Well, if you have the bearing, before doing a thing, you can disconnect the hub under the car and plug the new one in and see if the light goes out. All this done without driving or course. Simple ABS system check if you're getting the light... You can then return the part(s) not used. Worked for me to check which hub was actually bad. Had light but no other symptoms (clicking/clunks/vibes).
And yes, seems the Moog hubs don't have the longevity a bearing should. Just my observations as well.
11-19-2019
Ended up being the passenger side. I used the good one from the drivers side. Noise is gone!!!
I torqued the axle nuts down to specs when i did these three years ago and i was surprised at how easy the axle nuts came loose.
I still have the ABS/Trac light thats on most of the time. Weird thing is that it only happens in cold weather.
11-19-2019
Time to check the wire harness from the front hubs to the main loom. I'd bet there is a broken wire in there somewhere. I've replaced both of the front harness sections on my 00 GT over the years for this exact reason. Had corrosion on both about 3" up from the plug on the bearing. Would show the ABS/Trac light every now and then. Eventually it just stayed on once it had enough resistance to set the light.
10-21-2021
My experience has been the opposite. In other words if the sound diminished when turning to the right it would be the right side but it burned me one time on my own car in other words that did not hold true either.Originally Posted by firstdue
I have read that sometimes you can jack the car up and put your hand on the spring the coil spring on the strut and rotate the wheel/bearing assembly, and be able to feel it in the spring although I have not personally tried that.
| « Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
| Tags for this Thread |
| Bookmarks |
Bookmarks |
