Thread: Front subframe bushings clunk?

Lately I have been having a clunking sound when, I brake, give it gas from a stop or especially when driving over uneven pavement. There's no sound when turning or going over speed bumps(just shocks gassing). I replaced my LCAs last year so its not them.

I've added a strut tower braces recently too, which I believe tighten it up some, putting more stress on the rear bushings. The rubber seems really dry and rust falls out like a pretty red snow when I touch them.

Should I just order the rears subframe bushings for now, as I'd think they take more abuse than the fronts or is there something else I should look at first? Also, any tips on removing them as they seem to be a pain the ass?

Lower trans or engine mounts? I've checked the sway bar and it seems fine.

I revved it in drive with the brakes on and friend didn't see any movement of the engine at all and no noise. The mount on the driver side doesn't look to bad...

I'm thinking the trans and/or motor mounts are shot. IK you said you looked but from what you are saying, it sounds like lower mounts. The other things you can check are

1. Dog Bone bushings
2. Rack and pinion bushing
3. Intermediate steering shaft.
4. re-check tightness of LCA bolts

I tested it more on the drive home just now.

1) Clunks when hitting gas hard at any speed
2) Only Clunks when braking at <5 mpg
3) Sounds more like a Thud(less like metal on metal) when hitting brakes in reverse
4) Also does it over bumps

Anyway to check the bushings without replacing them? Assuming your talking about the ones visible from the wheel well. Also I already tighten all the LCAs nuts besides the ball joint with the castle nut.

Double check the dog bones. make sure the upper dog bong bracket isn't broken.

Believe I have figured it out. There's a gap where the front LCA mounts to the frame so it can slide up and down on the bolt hitting the frame. I ordered new OEM bushings to replace the Moog problem solvers I have right now. I'll update later this week with a answer for anyone who else has this issue.

Tighten the 55 torx more.
The top and bottom subframe mounts are aluminum, they will bend.
The sleeve in the bushing should be tight against them with no movement.

There's a good 1/8 inch or so of space. That's seems like alot to tighten. I'll try tightening before I put the new bushings.

Found the issue...The driver side bolt for the front LCA bushing was loose. So the harden steel bolt embiggened the aluminum hole. Driver side is 13mm(side) x 18mm(front), Passenger is 19mm(side) x 18mm(front), measured with ****ty plastic calipers. Also the metal sleeve in the Moog bushing cracked. I tightened them down and the clunk seems to be gone from testing in the driveway, didn't have time to replace the bushings today.

Any suggestions on what to do? JB well? Metal sleeve?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byp...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byp...w?usp=drivesdk

weld and redrill.
Those look nasty

That what I was afraid of spazzz, alittle beyond my means right now. The force to keep it mounted seems to be a clamping force on the aluminum so I just need to stop the bolt from pivoting in the mount, would JB weld work to stop the bolt from pivoting? As that should be a compression force which JB should withstand.

Also how did the metal bushing sleeve crack and why harden steel bolt in aluminum...