Thread: Figuring out replacing the monsoon amp.

Working with this amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC8...-KAC-8406.html

Head unit is hooked up with GMOS-04.

Im gunna split it 2 channels for the sub bridged, then 1 for each 6.5" in the doors for 4 channels total.

The sub and door speakers I dont have any confusion with because Im running RCA's right from the head unit to the amp, then speaker wire from the amp to the sub/doors.

Im a little unsure about how to handle the rear deck speakers, the tweeters in the doors, and the center dash speaker. I assume that all the speakers in the car get their power from the amp, so when I chop the amp out, those speakers wont get power since the new amp wont be hooked up to them. Do I need to chop up the wires connected to the factory amp and splice into them to run new wires to those speakers not powered by the new amp?

I was also wondering about the remote amp turn on wire, can I take that from the factory amp wires, or do have to take that from the harness at the head unit?

Alright, so I ran the power wire through the firewall back through the trunk, ran the RCA's from the head unit to the trunk. I disconnected the factory amp by unplugging it, and then I cut the violet "radio on" wire and spliced it onto a lead for the remote amp turn on... hooked it all up to the amp. Hooked up the sub to the amp.. the amp turns on, and the sub plays. I had the gain all the way down, but it has power and makes sound.

Im going to cut the harness at the factory amp and splice the inputs and outputs together for the rear deck speakers and keep them stock for now.. just so they play.

Now my last obstacle that I couldnt figure out just by looking... Im gunna be doing the doors tomorrow and I'll be running speaker wire from the amp to the doors. What's the best way to get the new speaker wires into the doors? I looked for a bit and I couldnt find an obvious opening to the rubber conduit that goes from the body to the door... any tricks?