Thread: Ok, what the f***!!!!`

whats up guys and gals ok this is my old audio setup i have 2 10" kicker cvr old model (grey and black) 4-ohm dvc
amp: **** boss 3000.1 mono block. recently purchased a new amp SSL 3000.1 1-ohm stable (pretty good amp might i add)
so everything has checked out fine sub-wiring ground power everything. WELL my problem is my system works when it wants too. I can take a quick trip to wal-mart and everything is good then when i get ready to leave no power to my amp. any suggestions

Additional info.
I have been installing audio systems for quite a while so i know how it all works.
my subs 800 watts max i have a pair so that's 1600 watts my amp 3000.1 mono block 1-ohm stable brand new out of the box terminal seals and all. so with subs are currently wired 1-ohm load at the amp. i'm not at the battery terminal with Power wire i guess that could be part of the issue other than that i'm stumped also my old amp started to do this but that amp is 5 years old (IT WAS TIME) Thanks in advance

@ luckyg I have it ran to the fuse box power lead I have ran my trailblazer this way as well with no problems but different strokes for different vehicles my ground wire is on a default bolt on the Body of the gp shved the paint and added the nut and washer firmly the amp can be too big but i have it tuned to a low volume basically so i wont blow them but i think those are my only two options

1.) Power Wire to Battery 2.) find a better ground..

Originally Posted by osiris94ej

So your saying you don't have power wire ran to the battery?

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No im not and that's the crazy part about it before this issue i have never had this problem in any of my cars
also the setup i have is the same setup i had for 3.5 years.
oh oh oh and to mention i re-ran all of the wires except my antenna from the back of my radio new ground new power wire

Switch the power wire to the battery and not the fusebox. Every car is different and sure doesn't hurt to try it.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

Switch the power wire to the battery and not the fusebox. Every car is different and sure doesn't hurt to try it.

exactly thanks for info fellas will try when i get off work

I suggest you get a multimeter. Where are you getting the remote power? Stereo?
When it goes out and doesn't want to work put the needles on the power and ground of the amp to see if there is voltage same with the remote wire.

Originally Posted by GTP89

I suggest you get a multimeter. Where are you getting the remote power? Stereo?
When it goes out and doesn't want to work put the needles on the power and ground of the amp to see if there is voltage same with the remote wire.

Done and done at battery im getting 14 and some change the same for the amp checked the ohms (speakers and amp) @ 1-OHMS turns out my remote wire basically i did a whole install new wires removed old wire and found out my remote wire fried not bad but it could cause me to lose power so its all new placemen of power wire is now connected to the batt (reason being that it fried due to the crappy amp) the amp has been around for a while i remembered my younger brother asking me man your amp havent burnt up anything in your car (clearly forgot) that was the same amp that my brother had when his system fried so.... new amp new wiring new everything except subs THANKS ALL

Originally Posted by Prixer97

What awg are you running to the box? Id start there, never cut corners do it right the first time id what I've learned. If pwr/rem check out, check voltage coming from the patch cables

0 gauge power 4 gauge ground

Originally Posted by luckyg817

Cool. Glad you got it fixed.

Thanks.