If you have a daily driver system Big 3 really doesn't help. Personally, I only recommend Big 3 if you grab an h.o. alt. Otherwise, my system running full tilt probably only uses ~25 amps at most WITH MUSIC. My amps push a total of about 1800 watts using a/b power supplies according to marketing. The op also mentions how he was getting flak from gpf.net. I can't talk for anybody else but I'm contributing the same information everywhere I go. I even have a thread here that explains why big 3 is nothing more than trendy when using stock alternators.
c_k_115: You can upgrade that cable. However, make sure your ground is the same or better.
-- Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:31 pm --
Some cheap reading about "Big 3"
An opinion about Alt. loads...
First thing anybody should do if they have issues with "dimming" is make certain they have GOOD grounds. Alternators don't have the capacity to fluxuate THAT quickly in order to respond to a "dim". If you have an issue with low output from your alternator that dim isn't for a split second...it lasts until that load is removed. i.e. power windows, rear defroster, etc. Once that "load" is turned off lights will resume normal function.
-- Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:32 pm --
An example of WHEN to use Big 3.
-- Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:39 pm --
This makes me smile
Bottom line...Big 3 isn't necessary in our vehicles UNLESS you need an H.O. alternator which would be specific to your application of speaker theory. Grounds are most important. That charging wire is only as good as the grounds that are complimenting.
If people come back and say "MY WINDOWS ROLL UP FASTER!!!".....what variables are inherently related to the electric motor working harder? If you can't answer then don't tell me emphatically that the "Big 3" is important. It's a trend outside of specific goals, which most individuals don't adopt.
-- Sun Aug 29, 2010 7:40 pm --
Sorry...I felt like adding another....
Here's another thread disputing "Big 3"