Thread: How many watts?

The amp is completely off its own wiring from the battery and remote wire. I am running 8gauge wire.

This is what I am running.
http://stingerelectronics.com/produc...2&CategoryID=1

Sub amps are typically wired with 4awg or bigger, because class D mono amps usually pull a lot more power than say a 2 or 4 channel amp for normal drivers.

You really shouldn't need to worry about upgrading your alternator unless you're gonna be going crazy with your setup, but then again if you were going to be doing that you wouldn't be here asking a question like yours. I always recommend upgrading your battery/ground cables under the hood though, which I myself have yet to do (btw those are typically 0awg).

That being said, all you really need is a good 10- or 12-inch sub for decent sound. No need to overdo it and rattle the car to pieces and annoying people by blasting a couple huge Jackhammers.

One last note: read up on the subject A LOT if you intend to do the install yourself, and if at all possible get a friend to show you how to do it that's done it a few times before. The install is always at least if not more important than the equipment itself.

i am aware of the wiring, sorry for my horrible wording. but ya i wanted to run a 15" alpine type R or kicker l5 or l7. the rms for type r and kicker l5 is 750w, the l7 is 1000w. So as long as i get a good amp to match rms, and do the install properly with the rights wires, there should be no issues?

Find out the speakr sensitivity for 1watt. In the 90's most subs were a higher sensitivity; i.e. 94 decibels w/1watt 1 meter, 8ohm. Theory states that doubling power increases output by 3 decibels. Therefore, they needed less power to reach higher output vs today's speakers that are typically made like tanks but are usually in the low 80's for output w/1watt.

Bottom line, you can't calculate requirements until you pick a speaker. You can't pick a speaker until you know installation goals.

Originally Posted by blakgtp

the ported box was from a friend it was designed for the alpine type R 12"

Then if you put any other speaker in it isn't "tuned" for 27hz anymore. Placing his exact setup in your vehicle doesn't guarantee that it will sound the same either.

I think the type R is an all around decent sub though. Very hard to go wrong if you want a jack of all master of none. It's what I tell most people to grab if they want cleand and loud on the cheap.

The sound characteristics of your sub have a lot to do with your mids and tweeters.

I'd stick with a type R. Both brands are somewhat easy to resell if you want to mess around. Why not try your friends type R in there and see what happens? Just a quick trial would help you decide if you want to try bigger.

I'd go with the bigger sub either way...

I have a buddy of mine with 2 - 12in Alpine Type R's and an 1800 Watt Kenwood Amp. The subs can hit so hard it ridiculous and its in a sealed box, so if it was ported the subs would make you deaf. Definetly go with the type R. Thats what im getting next.

tc i know what im talking about when it comes to subs, ive been through so many subs and amps and hooked up systems so much. yeah the type R's hit hard AND sound good. thats why i said im getting them for my next pair of subs. and for you blakgtp, my friends amp was an 1800 watt Kenwood, that 1800 watt was peak power. it pushes the subs pretty damn good but you could go even bigger if you want. buy a named brand amp too, thats your your make or break part in the system i think. a 4,000 watt Lanzar is worse than a 1,000 watt kenwood for sure. go with name brand amp, and buy a ported box. let the sub breathe

I'd take a zed made lanzar over a Kenwood. Depends on the build house. Don't discount tc300 either.

What impressed me was a sub setup that hit 130's w/1watt Don't always need power to reach your output goals. But remember, the "sound" of your sub is determined by your mid as well as tweeter depending on the drum note. Majority of the bass fundamentals start with a sub while transients complete the sound at higher frequencies. Ever sit in a vehicle specific for SPL and it's so loud you can't "hear" the sub? The mids aren't able to match the output of the sub(s).

the way i do my systems is i get all new speakers first and deck. i have pioneer tweeters, pioneer 5.25in front speakers and 6x9 kenwood performance series in the back hooked up to a 1200 watt SPL amp. get the speakers first then the subs. the speakers are like the "underwear" of car audio. need your underwear before you put your jeans on. thats how i look at it