Does anyone know how to bypass the OEM stereo amp?
also what is the best way to seal my 6X9's from the sub pressures in my trunk?
Are the oem component speakers in the front doors 5.25" and 1" tweeters?
Thanks for all your imput
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Does anyone know how to bypass the OEM stereo amp?
also what is the best way to seal my 6X9's from the sub pressures in my trunk?
Are the oem component speakers in the front doors 5.25" and 1" tweeters?
Thanks for all your imput
if you car came stock with the Bose stereo system then yes you will need to bypass it. The best way to do that is with the PAC OEM-2 adapter. If you don't have the Bose system then you might want to check your connections. Hope that helps!
Front speakers
Front Door: 5-1/4"
My front speaker grills still say "Bose" I never did change those, my amp is a little black thing mounted to the top of the trunk you see it as soon as you open the trunk lid not sure if it says bose anywhere on it I'll look later. My receiver was a Delco also but did not have any EQ settings.
Hope this helps
you would know it would say on the car and would have the amp in the back just like dstout said
yea if you have the Bose system you will need to do a little more work
Uncalled for. Post removed. Infraction given.
Uncalled for. Post removed. Infraction given. 2nd infraction given.
^ wtf?
OEM tweet is probably around an inch, woofer is 5.25".
The rear 6x9s shouldn't be running in the first place unless you have the level low enough that they don't deafen the rear passengers and so that they dont distract your ears from the front speakers.
The sub should be firing into the cabin so that you don't have wasted sound pressure bouncing around the trunk instead of the cabin where it belongs.
The problems you have are simpler to fix than you think.
the factory tweeter is a 3/4 inch , i put memphis m class tweets in mine and they fit great , as for letting the pressure on the 6x9 take the rear deck cover off and just take the 4 inch speakers out totally , they dont put out much and it lets the bass wave hit the rear glass and give you about a 3 db gain as opposed to doing nothing and 3 db is a decent amout and it will keep the pressure off the 6x9 .... ill put it this way , works great for my jl 15w3 with a true 1100 watt amp breathe
Bad case of VBA huh?
If you want accurate without a lot of headache find a place to build a box and request a Qtc of ~.7
If you want band pass or ported, give them an idea of what you're looking for and see what happens. "Violent Bass Air" shouldn't be an issue. Think of it as an exaggeration for "what if" in poor installations.
IB's are supposed to be completely sealed and the enclosure for the back-wave is supposed to be rigid enough to not rattle to **** when you actually play some music. Sadly a car's trunk isn't designed to do that so you'd end up with sub par results.
In home audio, its not that big of a deal because you have closer to 10 times Vas instead of car audio where you struggle to achieve 4 times. In the example you showed me, Vas is 281.8 PER woofer... The average trunk is around what, 300-400 litres? That falls a tad short of FOUR times the Vas of 2254.4 litres. 4 times is considered the min, 10 optimal.
Also if you consider a car has a stupid bass enhancing "room gain" curve then a sealed box should be all you really need...
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