Thread: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery

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  1. #1 Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
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    I disconnected my battery today to test assemble and aim my hid retrofit...I noticed that the goofy-ass lock on the negative terminal was very difficult to remove. After removing it I found the nut and bolt were stripped. I had the battery changed last summer and the mechanic must've really abused it during installation. Now I can't reconnect the battery.

    Is there any way to replace this lock, or any other bolt/nut combination I can use instead? I'd hate to have to do a significant repair for a single stripped bolt.
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  2. #2 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Try some vise grips and start turning it.

    Or find a bolt that fits the battery terminal and allows it to still conplete the ground.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  3. #3 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
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    Already tried forcing the nut on with vice grips...that was a no go.
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  4. #4 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Tough to help you when we don't know what kind of battery connection you have.

    97-03 is side posts
    04+ is a goofy top post dealio.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  5. #5 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
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    Top posts
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  6. #6 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    slap a new nut and bolt in the clamp. or get a new ground cable and install it. nut and bolt 50 cents tho lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    GTX Level Member tod1d's Avatar
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    The negative (black) post has been impossible for me to remove so I just been using the positive (red) side that I can do without any tools.

    2007 Pontiac Grand Prix
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2990036
    L26, CAI, HV3, ER Rockers, PLOG, Overkill Tune, flipped dog bones
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  8. #8 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    It's not an old school normal terminal Scott.... it's a fubared stupid thing that when you see one..you say.. "hows that work?".
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  9. #9 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    ok then lol im not familiar with the 04+ at all.

    so its time for a new cable then?

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  10. #10 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    I live here. SlowNA06's Avatar
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    Re-thread it?
    Irridium spark plugs last 100k mi and work just as well as copper. Copper is a waste on N/A and only lasts 15k mi. Don't use Platinum.
    Use 195* tstat unless you can thoroughly explain why not; 99.9% don't need a lower temp.
    Almost any oil filter, ever, is of higher quality than ACDelco. Spend $6+.
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  11. #11 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    GrandPrix Junkie NegativeOne13's Avatar
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    I just got one of those you bolt down to the cable and done. Something like this, cause I broke that gay negative battery shiz.

    http://www.amazon.com/Solid-Brass-To...780252&sr=8-35

    And smile it's Blacktooth Grin!
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  12. #12 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  13. #13 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    I live here. SlowNA06's Avatar
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    That... actually looks pretty nice.

    Also: Hey, this is kinda cool. Ooh, or this - looks more idiot-proof.
    Last edited by SlowNA06; 03-26-2012 at 11:52 AM.
    Irridium spark plugs last 100k mi and work just as well as copper. Copper is a waste on N/A and only lasts 15k mi. Don't use Platinum.
    Use 195* tstat unless you can thoroughly explain why not; 99.9% don't need a lower temp.
    Almost any oil filter, ever, is of higher quality than ACDelco. Spend $6+.
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  14. #14 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    if you wanted to get creative you could get the solider on type that way you dont have all the wires exposed and prone to dry wire over time.



    you dont need a solider plug, you can use regular solider and just fill up the terminal.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  15. #15 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    I live here. SlowNA06's Avatar
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    Irridium spark plugs last 100k mi and work just as well as copper. Copper is a waste on N/A and only lasts 15k mi. Don't use Platinum.
    Use 195* tstat unless you can thoroughly explain why not; 99.9% don't need a lower temp.
    Almost any oil filter, ever, is of higher quality than ACDelco. Spend $6+.
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  16. #16 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
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    I ended up having it towed to my local mechanic; I requested a new clamp and instead they remachined the bolt and reattached that stupid ass lock. Surprise, I was able to drive the car home but now it doesn't start. Yesterday it tried to not start so I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it started up after about 5 attempts at reconnecting, today I can't get it to start at all. I called the mechanic and they are saying it's a "different" problem; however, the car has never had this problem until I took it to them. Every time I turn the key the power goes out. I disconnect and reconnect the battery and the car has power again, but as soon as I try doing anything the power goes out again. I am wondering if there is a short at the battery now that is tripped the anti-theft system or something. Yesterday I was able to get the car to remote start and then put in the key and drive; today I am getting nothing out of it. The engine doesn't even try to turn; it's not like the battery is completely drained because I can reconnect it and get power to the inside of the car (lights, DIC). It's like something is shutting off the battery anytime I try to do something.
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  17. #17 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    check the grounds, facing the car, on the front side of the bell housing for the trans, above the starter, you will see wires bolted to the bell housing, make sure they are tight, may even want to unbolt them, clean them and bolt it back up, dont go ape on that bolt its a stud on top of a bolt head, it can break off if over tightened.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  18. #18 Re: Goofy negative terminal lock on battery 
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    How the *$&@ do you actually disconnect those terminals?! I've been messing with it for an hour now...I'm just short of cutting the things off and putting a normal cable on it
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