Thread: Hinson Heads ___S3x___or S2x? What Timing setup?

I plan on getting some Hinson heads done for a build I am thinking about. Nothing like Stage 4 ported heads but just enough which seems a lot go for. I am pretty sure I want to go Intense S3x cam but should I even consider an S2x?

130# crows and Manley retainers will be used. What's the most problem free timing setup out there right now for a build like mine? Is a Jp single roller or Rollmaster okay? Or is a double roller required? < machined front cover and oilpump cover needed from what I remember?

I will be stock lower end and will be using genuine Gm headgaskets. Should I even think about doing head studs?

Do head studs since you are pulling them off.

Since the heads are coming off, get a bigger cam...IS3, XPZ, etc.

Get a double roller. Don't think about running a single roller.

If i went single on 130s is that just going to break the chain eventually? With double i must remove the balance shaft right? Is there a vendor that makes a block off plate/plug to seal an oiling hole when the balance shaft is removed? I was thinking about the intense stage 3 or 2 cam. I have run the s1x and was happy years back. But its time for a change in this build. I just dont want anything too crazy and not daily driveable.

You are going to want a double roller with 130# springs. That weight of spring is pretty hard on the stock dampner.

Is3 is a pretty aggressive can...you may not like it for daily driving. I've also never been much of a fan of is2. It won't make much, if any more power than your s1x.

Check YouTube for idle vids of each can.

I would highly recommend an xpz in your situation. Great idle, and the same power as a is3.

I deleted the balance shaft and pluged the rear with a Dodge 440 cam bearing that fits into the balance shaft hole. just make sure you clock the oil hole 180 degrees from where it should be and you'll be good

From what I can gather I can go two ways with this build.

I'm unsure on using head studs at this time? Any insight? I plan to use genuine gm head gaskets.

S1x/105's/Single Roller (I have run a stock timing setup before for S1x/105's for 15k about, years back.)

or

XP/130's/Double Roller

-Leave the balance shaft but remove the gear or remove all and plug the hole. I have that covered now.
-With the 130's these would be ran when shifting over 6200 rpm correct? As well as preventing valve float at the high rpms?
-I have read that with the Rollmaster Double the oil pump cover will need to be machined (as seen on zzp's site as well as being told here) I am not fond of doubling up on a front cover gasket as it will leak sooner plus with the cover being pushing out more won't the crank pulley eat away and the crank seal? Or is the 100% needed?
-Why will the crank pulley need to be machined as stated above?
-For the double roller having a snug fit (on the crank) when someone says chamfer to prevent this, is this an extensive thing to try and dremel down yourself? Will this make it so it slides on and off with no excessive effort? Or must a machine shop do this? What is it they are exactly doing?

Originally Posted by PWNED

I'm unsure on using head studsat this time? Any insight?

Yes, get head studs.

They're not TTY so you can reuse them. This eliminates the torquing angle.

Also, they're much stronger.

What are they actually machining? The key ways or the actual O where it slides onto the crank?

I'm sorry that I keep asking these questions but I like to do things once.

There are SO many threads out there covering this topic, using a double roller on a 3800 block... But here... The Double Roller was not made for this block. The DR crank gear on the back side is NOT chamfered and will not sit correctly thereby creating an offset between where the crank gear sits and the cam gear sits. This will lead the DR to fail. To fix this, the crank gear with the set needs to be machined and match the chamfer on the stock timing crank gear. It's easy to have done, or buy one that's already set up. Also, with the DR, you'll want an oil pump cover that is machined a bit too in order to create a little clearance and ensure the chain will not rub. Some use double timing cover gaskets to achieve the same, or both for extra comfort

Use the ARP Studs without worries, just do the proper preparations by cleaning the threads well and using SEALANT in the holes and on the studs. Use Grease on the threads and nuts and washers prior to torquing the heads down. Make sure you torque the heads in steps and in the proper sequence.

but use Google and search "Double Roller 3800" or add GrandPrix, add GranPrixForums.net on the end and you'll get links to threads here with the same.

I'd use the a new stock chain and dampener with the 130's

Originally Posted by dsmuts

I'd use the a new stock chain and dampener with the 130's

Will this work and last? Not trying to thread jack but been watching.this one..debating what to run with an xp and 125 springs. Was leaning double roller.

I have 30k on that setup

Side note. I am using a 98 engine for my 02. Are the front timing covers the same but the alternator brackets are different? So all I need is a 99+ alt bracket?

yes, alt. bracket for 97/98 is different from 99+

So all i need is an alt bracket from a 99+ and still use the current side cover?

Originally Posted by PWNED

So all i need is an alt bracket from a 99+ and still use the current side cover?

Side cover is same for all 3800s I used a 97 l67 cover on a 08 l26.