Thread: Coolant Elbows

My alternator tensioner started getting weak, so I replaced it with one I purchased from ZZP. When I purchased the tensioner, I also purchased the coolant elbows from ZZP. I went on a road trip, when I returned I noticed coolant leaking on the ground and the leak was coming from the elbows. I didn't think I would have to change the O rings these before installation, I thought it only applied to the Doorman elbows. Luckily no damage occurred from the lack of coolant. I upgraded to the Doorman aluminum elbows and yes I replaced the O rings before installation.
ZZP elbows after removal, notice how the O rings are compressed flat.


Here are the aluminum elbows that were installed and a picture of one that was installed. I couldn't get a clear picture the other one.



I also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. Getting to the lower hose clamps wasn't easy, but I got it done and now all is as it should be.

they all look flat like that when removed.

I run a bead of rtv around them, so I never have a leaking problem.

^^^ Thats exactly what I do also.

ive only oiled the o rings, changed mine twice, once cause they leaked, then just the upper elbow when i did my lim job. as long as the holes are clean no rtv is needed.

Those look excessively flat for only a few hundred miles. Mine we're not even that flat after 98k miles.
And why would people need to change the o-rings on the aluminum ones?? They seated just fine and are not leaking for me, I cleaned my holes out and greased them though.

the good one i changed for my lim was as flat, the way i look at it is, it had to compress to seal right. why its flat. its still a C hair taller then the elbow.

i rtv the f**k out mine 40k miles in one year lots driving very hard driving lol and no ishues

You are wasting your time RTVing them. I had several years on my elbows with zero leaks until the elbow itself blew out. I put aluminums in, used no RTV and have no leaks.

Damn....I'll never get that 30 seconds back.

Originally Posted by GTPpower

Damn....I'll never get that 30 seconds back.

My thoughts exactly. 30 seconds of work for years of peace of mind.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

they all look flat like that when removed.

A few years back the Dealer did my Lim under warranty and changed the elbows. Six months later I removed the tensioner to get to the steering pump, the O ring weren't flat and I just re installed the elbows with no leaks . The O rings on these elbows are flush with the groove they ride in.

Originally Posted by industrialfish

Those look excessively flat for only a few hundred miles. Mine we're not even that flat after 98k miles.
And why would people need to change the o-rings on the aluminum ones?? They seated just fine and are not leaking for me, I cleaned my holes out and greased them though.

I changed the O rings just to be on the safe side and didn't want to keep spending on antifreeze.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

the good one i changed for my lim was as flat, the way i look at it is, it had to compress to seal right. why its flat. its still a C hair taller then the elbow.

Only the purple one is taller and that's the only one that wasn't leaking. I drove the car for two weeks checking for leaks before I went on the road and there weren't any.

I switched out the o-rings on the aluminum one's I installed on mine. I replaced them with o-rings GM uses. They are a tad bigger. I never had issues with the GM's but the Dorman's I have had issues with the o-rings leaking.

why would one take the alt bracket off to change a p/s pump?

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

why would one take the alt bracket off to change a p/s pump?

If for some reason you want to get to it from the top, the hoses going to the heater core are definitely in the way.

I've used GM, Dorman and probably some knock off of the knock off brand. Never had a leaking issue. I clean the old corrosion out and use oil or vasoline to lube the new rings so they don't get torn when reassembling.

If you put RTV in there..then you get to clean it out the next time you want to remove them.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

why would one take the alt bracket off to change a p/s pump?

Originally Posted by industrialfish

If for some reason you want to get to it from the top, the hoses going to the heater core are definitely in the way.

Some pics from the top with the pump circled in red:

next time rip it out the bottom of the wheel well, your the only one who's taken that off to do a pump.

Yeah.. that's the harder coolant flush method of doing the pump.