Thread: Oversized Radiators

Originally Posted by Russosaur

That kit is what 700 bucks or something right?

Comes with what a
3.4 MPS
3" DP
CAI
ZZP PCM
104s
Belt
Tstat
Bells
Whistles

Out of all those things only the downpipe is an actual supporting mod and most of the time a downpipe is not near enough for a 3.4 even some people with headers struggle to run on a 3.4 but everycar is different and dropping pulley sizes is all based on KR.

I want to say basic 3.4 setups range from stuff like this give or take

Headers
Headers/1.9s
Plog/DP
Plog/DP/1.9s


But its all based on how much your car knocks.
Not to mention everything in that kit can be had for probably 200-300 bucks and thats being generous and headers can be had 200-250ish and flow much better than a Downpipe. Or a Plog/DP combo for about the same money.

If you haven't yet give this a read http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...00-Powered-Car


Sent from BFE

You forgot I couple things. I added them in bold. :P No but seriously that kit is a ripoff. the CAI and PCM are completely unnecesary, the spark plugs belt and tstat can be had localy or on amazon for much cheaper.

That leaves you with a 3.4 pulley, which you can grab for about 45 on the forums used now and then, a downpipe which is around 120-150 which should be replaced with 220$ headers anyways, and thats it.. Don't get ripped off :-)

Originally Posted by EmoEvoBoi'sBishette

You forgot I couple things. I added them in bold. :P No but seriously that kit is a ripoff. the CAI and PCM are completely unnecesary, the spark plugs belt and tstat can be had localy or on amazon for much cheaper.

That leaves you with a 3.4 pulley, which you can grab for about 45 on the forums used now and then, a downpipe which is around 120-150 which should be replaced with 220$ headers anyways, and thats it.. Don't get ripped off :-)

Thanks for the info, I will have a second thought about that kit.

I got a 1" rad off of amazon from spectra. Cu1890. Its a huge upgrade over my stock na radiator. My temps rarely get above thermostat temp. If its 100* out with the ac on going down the interstate it'll hit 205*

How long has it been installed?

About a year and a half now. Its literally a perfect fit. Stock mounts, stock clips, stock hoses, stock transmission cooler fittings... It comes with all brand new hardware and even a new oring for the level sensor. The transmission cooler built into it is also Mich better then the stock one. My transmission rarely if ever gets above my engine temp by more then 5 degrees.

Oh. And it was a mix of parts made in Canada / the USA! Only Chinese thing was the transmission fitting tool... Which they included for free!

Originally Posted by TCBoltFawker

I got a 1" rad off of amazon from spectra. Cu1890. Its a huge upgrade over my stock na radiator. My temps rarely get above thermostat temp. If its 100* out with the ac on going down the interstate it'll hit 205*

How are you hitting 205 on the freeway ? My stock setup never goes above 194 with the 187 tsat.

100* outside check, ac blasting at full power check, dragging a 4000lb car down the road at 80mph check, mid 12 second car on street tires check. It used to hit 220 under the same conditions with the stock rad. 99% of the time it sits right at 182* with my 180* thermostat no problem. That's just under the worst case scenario that it hits 205.

Ok...seems like a really good radiator then.....I have to take a better look at it.

Originally Posted by TCBoltFawker

100* outside check, ac blasting at full power check, dragging a 4000lb car down the road at 80mph check, mid 12 second car on street tires check. It used to hit 220 under the same conditions with the stock rad. 99% of the time it sits right at 182* with my 180* thermostat no problem. That's just under the worst case scenario that it hits 205.

I understand I live in Arizona 115 degrees. You car is not 4000 pounds, at 80 you're not in constant boost.

I never said I was in consistent boost, my car with me, my sub's, and 3 other friends could easily be 4000lbs, "normal" operating temp is 230 - 200 according to gm on most of their cars anyways. People forget that as your car gets warmer the tempature difference is higher so you can shead even more heat.

Its possible but unlikely. I didn't exactly dissect it because it was -30 out that day and I had limited time in the heated garage. Car had its coolant religiously changed every 40k its whole life. Not a single spec of dexcool sludge. It even had the lim gaskets changed Preemptively BEFORE they failed. The radiator looked to be more or less clean (as in no clogged fins) when I replaced it. The only reason I took it out was because the end tanks started dripping on the ground whenever it got below -10 outside. All I know for sure is that the car Rarely gets above thermostat temp anymore and the replacement radiator was easily 2x as thick and held quite a bit more coolant.

Check this video out!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...YU9e8V7aE7iVAA

That video was simply aluminum vs steel and the heat dissapation properties. We know aluminum can put heat out faster than steel, which is why a two row in this case can outperform the steel 3row, the other variable might be the volume of fluid in the two row.

For grand prix's though most of us will look at the radiator and blame it when theres 10+yrs of **** clogged in the a/c condenser which will greatly restrict airflow to the radiator.