Thread: Found a random taped off vacuum line, help please?

Originally Posted by JayHerlth

Well, the fan blasts and only minimal amount of air will come out of the vents. AC 'works' it's cooler than the hot air, but not ice cold air. Boost gauge doesn't work still, I'm assuming it's from that T connector missing. I'll go to the auto parts store on Thursday or Friday when I have time to get some parts to make shift a T connector. If I fail, oh well. I'm still waiting on the connector to show up in the mail

look for the other side of the taped off line. if need be you can slide a new rubber vac line over the hard line and make the connection. your boost wont show cause the map sensor is not seeing any vacuum. car must be running like crap with a leak like that.

follow the diagram posted up there and make sure its all plumbed back right. should be a night and day difference.

if you get the taped off line reconnected to its other 1/2 your a/c and heat will work like it should. like i said earlier, look under the fuse box on the pass side wheel well for the other side, its a hard line like up top where its capped.

been there, minus the driving the parents car, they never let me use their cars, if i wanted to drive a car i had to buy it myself, insure it myself, pay to fix it, gas it up, every damn thing, zero help at all. you want it,,,,you will pay for it yourself i was told, and they meant it. trust me lol

i used a lot of junk yard parts as a kid. you do what you gotta do.


my father pretty much sold me his 77 gmc, ( i was still paying it off) the clutch went bad and it was dead in the water, so i pulled the engine out and changed the clutch. i know trans out seems like the way to go but it was a 4 speed manual and it was heavy and i had no trans jack.

my dad pulls in the drive way as the engine is just coming up and over the rad support, all he does is look at wtf is going on, then says that had best run again lol and walked away. next day it was on the road again.

luck for me this was not my first engine pull at home, so they had seen one come out one go back in and it drive away a few times.

not sure if the fatter vac line will fit the small T tho. i just spit on the tub and pushed in on. its still there. works like a charm.


my vac line repairs. to the left under the snout is the hard line to the map sensor, i kept the hard line there, and use a 1 inch length of vac line from the hard line to the t.

gravel driveways do have there advantages, you can make a mess and it dont matter. leak fluids who cares, but rocks in the knees do suck, and its easy to loose nuts and bolts.


i live in a apt. so i have no where to work at all. so i do it at a friends house. a brake job on his truck. in the gravel d/w.



then this happened, hes now the oil stain police lol i was not allowed to park in his driveway for a good 2 months, till he f ed it up enough him self. ( my car leaks oil) so i now have a square of ply wood just for me to put under my car when i come over.

Originally Posted by JayHerlth

As of right now, she runs but occasionally stalls or has rough up and down idles. Poor thing.

all you need is like 6 inches of new vac line and a t. and that will be all better, talking 3 bucks in parts tops, if you find the cheap good t's at advance auto they are 2 bucks for a 2 pack. put 3, inch and 1/2 long pieces of vac line on the new T then push the hard lines into the new vac line on the T. then the last one on the nipple on the lim.

if you can cap that nipple off i bet it runs a lot better till you get the T and some line.

Originally Posted by JayHerlth

Real quick, since you're actively replying and this is a Grand Prix forums. What does that little button on the shift stick do? Have found no info and am too scared to drive around and press it. Lol

push it, its fun lol


its the performance shift button, push the button and a light on the dash or dic will say "perf shift" when its lit up its in that mode, this will make the shifts points a bit further up the rpm range, and make it shift better, faster/firmer.

these engines can take a good beating, just keep up with your oil changes and regular maintenance. not that im saying to beat the tar out of it all day long lol quite reliable most of the time. like any car tho, its got it common issues that pop up.

take the door skins off the inside of the doors, with a test light see if the plug to the motors getting power when the switch is worked.

a bad master switch will make the windows not work. mine the child lock part took a dump and only the master switch could work any of the windows.

you can patch broken wires easy. get yourself a soldering iron, shrink tubes and solder. done deal.

always strip the ends back till you hit clean shinny copper, then solder.

you dont have to replace it all, leave 4 inches off the plus ends, solder to that, or you push the pins out, and then you need to find new pins to crimp and solder on the wires to fit the plugs.

leaving a pig tail is easier.

if you do find a broken wire chances are it will be inside the rubber accordion part door to body.

then theres always the chance all 4 window motors took a crap. if you have some wire you can run a wire from the battery to the motor, you'll need a ground too, then touch the terminals on the motor. it should work if it works. switching the wires around should make it move the opposite way.

if they work with direct power you have a switch or wire problem.