Nearly Stock First KR readings

**2007GPGTSC** · 11-26-2013

I just installed my Scan Gauge (aeroforce) yesterday and obtained my first KR readings on my :

2007
GP GT S/C
100k

180° tstat
Intake
I have not yet installed my 3' ZZP catt'd DP or my PLOG (haven't had time - too cold)

Anyways I did a WOT pull from 0-115ish here are the results

0-50 @ WOT KR read between 0.5° - 1.8°
50-75 @ WOT KR read between 3.5° - 6.0°
75-115ish @ WOT KR read between 1.0° - 1.7°

Is this normal and will the additional parts I have not yet installed eliminate the majority of that?

**ADrugDealer** · 11-26-2013

Are you running 91 octane or more fuel?

Those numbers look normal except the 50-75 that seems highish; however, within reason for a 100% stock car.

Get those parts on, they should help quite a bit. Also, make sure you are using 91 or higher octane fuel.

**2007GPGTSC** · 11-26-2013

Yes, I am running 91 octane - it spiked to 6.0 for maybe 1 second and then leveled off to around 2.5 - 4 regardless I want to eliminate it so I will be installing those as soon as I have the chance - I also forgot to include I am running TR55's and 10.5mm wires probably makes little to no difference but I forgot to mention that

**dmahlikGT** · 11-26-2013

Yea once you get those exhaust mods on you should be around 0-2° at best,maybe lol. Id even say switch to al605s too which could help.

**2007GPGTSC** · 11-26-2013

I've read mixed feelings about running colder and colder plugs but have yet to read a logical explanation because it seems when someones opinion is challenged or put to the test .... they all turn to trolls

**nik12937** · 11-26-2013

Colder plugs will almost always reduce KR a bit, but at the expense of fuel efficiency. You generally want the hottest spark to encourage more complete combustion, so flow mods are a better way to reduce KR. Lightly missed, one heat range colder is what I'd go for. You won't see much benefit to going colder than that until you get into headers, smaller pulleys, and an actual tune.

If I was you I'd get those flow mods on and see what you're getting then. If you have 1 degree or less KR then I'd just keep the stock heat range.

**ntreftz** · 11-26-2013

difference between hotter and colder plugs-

Hotter plugs have a minutely larger gaps and a larger conductor to try and increase the diameter of the spark that ignites the fuel. all is good except for it not being a very accurate ignition.
its like dumping a gallon of napalm to burn a pile of leaves. Yes it gets the job done but it does not allow for a even combustion.

Colder plugs have a minutely smaller gap and conductor to decrease the size of the spark diameter to enhance a even ignition from center of the cylinder head burning down to the piston head, developing more crank HP and less likelihood of an un-even burn.

**dmahlikGT** · 11-26-2013

^ what this guy said. Until you drop pullies,going 1 heat range colder isnt a big deal. Potential to kill knock without sacrificing much fuel economy.

**ntreftz** · 11-26-2013

beware that you better have a good battery if you run tr5's or 104's
I have Autolite 606's and its getting tougher to crank with a cold block

**ntreftz** · 11-26-2013

Originally Posted by ntreftz

its like dumping a gallon of napalm to burn a pile of leaves and you burn down the closest wooded area too. Yes it gets the job done but it does not allow for a even combustion.

fixed

**tomtom123** · 11-26-2013

I have a 1999 GTP stock except with 2.5" cat'd ZZP downpipe running AL 104's and so far I haven't seen any downfalls yet. I still seem to have knock but I only have the Torque app so I can't guarantee accuracy. I have been able to start the car so far just fine in 20° weather, but it is only going to get colder. I am considering going the next range hotter for now but I am also interested in dropping to a 3.4 or 3.5" S/C pulley eventually.

**WolvesSoulZ** · 11-26-2013

When my Comp-G was stock it had all around between 0 an 4* of KR. The worst, strangely, was highway cruising at 70, as soon as I'd hit a hill, it'd creep to 3-4* of KR (Getting down from the factory 45* of timing adv.) Now it never leaves 0.0 with just an XP Cam and a tune

**darkhorizon** · 11-26-2013

plug temperature has nothing to do with anything anyone said in this thread... Its simply the amount of cooling the plug has.. aka how much heat gets transmitted back to the cylinder head. A colder plug is more thermatically conductive, so it stays cooler.

**2007GPGTSC** · 11-26-2013

It was strange it spiked to 5.5° - 6.0° for maybe 1 second and then leveled off and it was WOT at around 60-70ish

**tomtom123** · 11-26-2013

I was just commenting about my plugs to the comments on what plugs to run for beneficialness. I was also saying I still have knock registering but was referring to my downpipe not seeming to have reduced my knock =/
But yeah, I was just sharing my experiences with the AL 104's

**ntreftz** · 11-27-2013

Originally Posted by darkhorizon

plug temperature has nothing to do with anything anyone said in this thread... Its simply the amount of cooling the plug has.. aka how much heat gets transmitted back to the cylinder head. A colder plug is more thermatically conductive, so it stays cooler.

This is also true but not the whole story

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