Thread: Car all of a sudden will not start

Why...cause you coulda done that or had advance/autozone do it free?

My mechanic do it for free that's not the problem it's just cuz I bought this battery and now gotta get an alternator as well. So I wasted some money today fml.

Not necessarily. Often alternators kill a battery. Not just drain, but literally over time they kill it as they are dying.

Well will be placing an order on an alternator from either rockauto or ebay then at least my battery ad alternator will be fresh. As for now gonna have to chill on my accessory usage.

And the fun dosent stop, got old battery tested and it was 100% charged sitting at 12.8 volts! Might have to sell a battery,want some of my money back. lol

google local alternator and starter re builders in your local area. i bet you find one close enough. they run about 1/3 less then a parts store, or the web. they want your old one for a core, if they dont have one on the shelf, they will re build yours. same day service most of the time. my guy here turns them around a few hours.

with a warranty of course.

Originally Posted by dmahlikGT

And the fun dosent stop, got old battery tested and it was 100% charged sitting at 12.8 volts! Might have to sell a battery,want some of my money back. lol

Hold the phone now, I guess you didnt know that a battery can seem perfect and read 12.6-12.8 volts but as soon as a big load is put upon the battery it will drop to less than 7 or 8 volts and be unable to start the car.

So its still possible that the battery is toast.

Yea for now ill ride around and see what's up. Refuse to shell out any extra doe. I will keep having my volts checked for now and if I notice things are dropping alt will be next. I know what youre talking about Scotty I have 2 of those places around town so I took that into consideration. But thanks for that input fivefinger.

just because a battery shows full volts means nothing.

i work in the forklift business as a service tech, and i cant even count how many times static voltage shows 12, 24v, 36v, 48v (depending on application) but as soon as you try and go full throttle or lift, voltage drops way down and it will code out.

static voltage is usually useless... when determining if a battery is at fault.

you need to load test the battery. the auto zone by me finally got a real battery tester, they clamp it on the battery, it shows volts, running and not running, and does a load test, this test how strong it is. its a direct relation to the battery's cca's. if any are left.

Just an update, went to local LKQ and got a used Alternator for $50( $25 after my core return) and installed that plus recharged my battery. Car started first time but second time did the same thing ,no start. So gave it a few min and started it again,let it run for a few min and even drove for 15min cuz I had to get stuff from walmart. Left it running at walmart and came back out to hear it making all kinds of noise. DIC said charging system fail and car just died. Called a local mechanic whose shop is right across the street from the walmart and he towed it to his shop and found the problem within a half hour, turns out it was a loose/damaged ground wire! He replaced that and also my starter relay cuz he said it was burnt out, he cleaned all little corrosion there was and tightend up stuff and 5hrs later my car was back to normal again with no problems at all.